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Mother Tower - Rising Sons
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British C2
Avg: 3 from 3
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Routes in Family Butte
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Fifth Tower from the South (Second from the North) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fourth Tower from the South (Third from the North) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Middle Tower – Daughter T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Middle Tower – Northwest Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mother Tower - Rising Sons T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 |
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Mother Tower – Northwest Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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North Tower AKA Son of Putterman - Mexican Gravy Pants T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c C1 |
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South Tower – North Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Shingo Ohkawa, Paul Ross, Andy Ross (var leads)Nov 7th 2012 |
| Page Views: | 2,252 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Paul Ross on Nov 9, 2012 · Updates |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Description
Rising Son takes a direct line up the SW face of the tallest of tower of the Family Butte known as Mother Tower. Overall the white wingate rock is excellent.
P1) The climb goes up an offwidth that starts up an awkward overhung V groove. Struggle up the crack (two #6 two #5 one #4 friends useful) that crosses the climb that goes up the Daughter Tower to the right past two bolts on this climb to double anchors on the sloping ledge. 80' 5.9 C1
P2) Move into the fine right facing corner which is climbed mainly on cams plus 5 bolts to a small ledge and double anchors. A nice pitch. 140' C2
P3) From the belay, move right and follow eight bolts up the headwall to a mantle then finish up easy climbing to the summit. There is a three bolt anchor in place from the route on the NW side of the tower. 80' 5.6 C1
Descent. Rap from the anchors 100' to ledges on the NW side of the tower. Scramble down trending right to around the north end of the towers.
The climb might go free but it will be no cake walk.
Summit register in cairn. Placed in 2002 by Layne Potter. Several entries from north face route.
P1) The climb goes up an offwidth that starts up an awkward overhung V groove. Struggle up the crack (two #6 two #5 one #4 friends useful) that crosses the climb that goes up the Daughter Tower to the right past two bolts on this climb to double anchors on the sloping ledge. 80' 5.9 C1
P2) Move into the fine right facing corner which is climbed mainly on cams plus 5 bolts to a small ledge and double anchors. A nice pitch. 140' C2
P3) From the belay, move right and follow eight bolts up the headwall to a mantle then finish up easy climbing to the summit. There is a three bolt anchor in place from the route on the NW side of the tower. 80' 5.6 C1
Descent. Rap from the anchors 100' to ledges on the NW side of the tower. Scramble down trending right to around the north end of the towers.
The climb might go free but it will be no cake walk.
Summit register in cairn. Placed in 2002 by Layne Potter. Several entries from north face route.
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