All Locations > Colorado > Boulder > Upper Dream Canyon > Lost Angel

Variation to Hunky Monkey (last 2 pitches of Only a Dreamer?)

Name: Variation to Hunky Monkey (last 2 pitches of Only a Dreamer?)
Rating: 3.1

5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British

Routes in Lost Angel

L › R R › L A › Z

	Fright Grooves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
	Night Grooves S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Time Traveler T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Shape Shifters T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Be Here Now T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Knowoneness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Crazy Wisdom T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Shunyata T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Raise the Titanic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Strange Cargo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Primal Cinema S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Lacewing S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Autumn S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Variation to Hunky Monkey (last 2 pitches of Only a Dreamer?) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Hunky Monkey S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Divination S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Divination Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Dynamometer S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Earth Voyage S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	China Doll's Voyage (Link up of China Doll P1 into Earth Voyage P2) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	China Doll T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3
	China Doll (P1-2, free) T,S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
	Archangel S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Podophobia S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Digital Dilemma (a.k.a. Johnny and Stella's route) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Dyno Arête S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Freedom S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Light of Day T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Wide Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Escape From Freedom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Rock Odyssey S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Interzone T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Awakenings S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Naked Lunch S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Zentropa T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Lost in Tradslation T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Signs of Life S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Long Dong Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Long Dong with Zentropa Finish T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Disneyland S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Weenie Roast T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Pistol Grip Pump T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Life on Mars T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Killing in the Name T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Crack In the Wall T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Take the Power Back T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Rush S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Rage Against The Machine T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Host, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Vaino Step, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Jungle Blues From Jupiter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Outta This World T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Spiders From Mars T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Caterer, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Drop Zone S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	AAArete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Boy's World T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Technical Remote Viewing S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Standard Route S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

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Type:	Sport, 2 pitches
FA:	unknown
Page Views:	1,946 total · 13/month
Shared By:	Jeff G on Oct 31, 2012
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

This is a great but much harder finish to Hunky Monkey. Do the first two pitches of Hunky Monkey, but instead of going up and right on the ramp for the third pitch, go LEFT and climb a short bolted headwall that goes at 11b. The fourth pitch is amazing and is rated 11d.

The 11b pitch has a crazy pull up and mantle move to get started which is followed by nice but easier climbing. The next pitch is excellent and involves steep and difficult to read face climbing.