All Locations > Colorado > Boulder > Upper Dream Canyon > Lost Angel

Variation to Hunky Monkey (last 2 pitches of Only a Dreamer?)

Name: Variation to Hunky Monkey (last 2 pitches of Only a Dreamer?)
Rating: 3.1

5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British

Routes in Lost Angel

L › R R › L A › Z

	AAArete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Archangel S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Autumn S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Awakenings S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Be Here Now T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Boy's World T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Caterer, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	China Doll T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3
	China Doll (P1-2, free) T,S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
	China Doll's Voyage (Link up of China Doll P1 into Earth Voyage P2) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Crack In the Wall T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Crazy Wisdom T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Digital Dilemma (a.k.a. Johnny and Stella's route) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Disneyland S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Divination S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Divination Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Drop Zone S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Dynamometer S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Dyno Arête S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Earth Voyage S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Escape From Freedom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Freedom S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Fright Grooves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
	Host, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Hunky Monkey S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Interzone T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Jungle Blues From Jupiter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Killing in the Name T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Knowoneness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Lacewing S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Life on Mars T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Light of Day T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Long Dong Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Long Dong with Zentropa Finish T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Lost in Tradslation T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Naked Lunch S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Night Grooves S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Outta This World T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Pistol Grip Pump T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Podophobia S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Primal Cinema S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Rage Against The Machine T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Raise the Titanic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Rock Odyssey S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Rush S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Shape Shifters T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Shunyata T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Signs of Life S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Spiders From Mars T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Standard Route S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Strange Cargo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Take the Power Back T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Technical Remote Viewing S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Time Traveler T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Vaino Step, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Variation to Hunky Monkey (last 2 pitches of Only a Dreamer?) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Weenie Roast T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Wide Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Zentropa T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

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Type:	Sport, 2 pitches
FA:	unknown
Page Views:	1,933 total · 13/month
Shared By:	Jeff G on Oct 31, 2012
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

This is a great but much harder finish to Hunky Monkey. Do the first two pitches of Hunky Monkey, but instead of going up and right on the ramp for the third pitch, go LEFT and climb a short bolted headwall that goes at 11b. The fourth pitch is amazing and is rated 11d.

The 11b pitch has a crazy pull up and mantle move to get started which is followed by nice but easier climbing. The next pitch is excellent and involves steep and difficult to read face climbing.