Tecumseh's Curse
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.1 from 13 votes
Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | Andrew Wheatley, Brad Combs 2009 |
Page Views: | 1,412 total · 9/month |
Shared By: | Tom Caldwell on Oct 26, 2012 |
Admins: | Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Land Owned by Muir Valley Nature Preserve
Details
Officially known as Muir Valley Nature Preserve, Muir Valley is one of Red River Gorge's crown jewels. Originally the area was privately owned by Rick and Liz Weber, but in March 2015 the Webers gifted the land to the non-profit Friends of Muir Valley (FOMV), a 501(c)3 organization. FOMV is now 100% responsible for the ownership, in addition to funding and up-keeping the property.
The valley is home to more than 30 separate climbing walls, all open to climbers at no charge, a $15 fee is charged per car for parking to offset maintenance costs.
Some important rules must be followed to ensure future access and enjoyment by all. A complete list can be found at muirvalley.org/tabs/#pills-1 , but the most important are listed below:
The valley is home to more than 30 separate climbing walls, all open to climbers at no charge, a $15 fee is charged per car for parking to offset maintenance costs.
Some important rules must be followed to ensure future access and enjoyment by all. A complete list can be found at muirvalley.org/tabs/#pills-1 , but the most important are listed below:
- All climbers must fill out a legal release form before climbing. muirvalley.org/waiver/ ;
- The parking lot described in the directions below is the only permitted parking. Do not park on private drives.
- No dogs are allowed in Muir Valley (nor left in your car in the parking lot.)
- No hammocks are allowed to be hung/used in Muir Valley.
Description
This is a wildly thin and difficult climb that requires finesse, power, and endurance.
Figure out how to get onto the first ledge. Peer around the arete and get the first bolt clipped, don't blow it. Follow the bolt line up the right face using thin crimps and the occasional arete slap until you arrive below the first roof. Crux, begin moving up the overhang with very thin hands and marginal foot placements to a dynamic stab for the first decent hand. Make another big throw out to obvious jug ledge and surmount it. Continue up easier ground using both sides of the arete until you reach the bolts on the left side at a ledge.
Figure out how to get onto the first ledge. Peer around the arete and get the first bolt clipped, don't blow it. Follow the bolt line up the right face using thin crimps and the occasional arete slap until you arrive below the first roof. Crux, begin moving up the overhang with very thin hands and marginal foot placements to a dynamic stab for the first decent hand. Make another big throw out to obvious jug ledge and surmount it. Continue up easier ground using both sides of the arete until you reach the bolts on the left side at a ledge.
Location
Walk past the steep climbs until there is a break in the wall. The arete is the furthest most left climb on the right section of the wall. Look for bolts on the right face until a roof section, then the bolts continue up the left face. A 60m is enough to get down. As of 10/12, there were fixed carabiners to lower from.
4 Comments