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> Trilobite Tower
Original Route
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British C1
Avg: 3.2 from 6
votes
| Type: | Trad, Aid, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Mike Swanicke, Peter Gram, Andrew Gram 9/29/2012. FFA P1 Mason Earle and Neils Tietze March 2013 |
| Page Views: | 4,455 total · 30/month |
| Shared By: | Andrew Gram on Oct 10, 2012 |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Description
P1 - Climb the beautiful splitter .5/.75 camalot crack. There is not much size variation on this pitch. 140' 5.12+/13- or C1. Belay at two bolts on a small ledge.
P2 - Climb the chimney to a great ledge with two bolts. A chockstone is slung at the start, and some gear can be placed in cracks within the chimney. 80' 5.9
P3 - Climb a 3 bolt ladder to some free climbing, and then another 10 bolt or so ladder to the summit. The bolt ladder has a lot of face features and should also go free, though some bolts may need to be repositioned(oops). 130' 5.9 C1.
Descent - Rap to the top of P2 with a single 70m rope, and then rap to the ground with a 70m double rope rap. Without 70m ropes, make a double rope rap to the top of P2 and maybe even P1(don't know for sure), single rope rap to the top of P1, and then double rope rap to the ground.
P2 - Climb the chimney to a great ledge with two bolts. A chockstone is slung at the start, and some gear can be placed in cracks within the chimney. 80' 5.9
P3 - Climb a 3 bolt ladder to some free climbing, and then another 10 bolt or so ladder to the summit. The bolt ladder has a lot of face features and should also go free, though some bolts may need to be repositioned(oops). 130' 5.9 C1.
Descent - Rap to the top of P2 with a single 70m rope, and then rap to the ground with a 70m double rope rap. Without 70m ropes, make a double rope rap to the top of P2 and maybe even P1(don't know for sure), single rope rap to the top of P1, and then double rope rap to the ground.
Protection
Every .5 camalot you can get - at least 6. 4 .75 camalots, 2-3 sets of yellow and red aliens. 1-2 sets of everything else. Big cams optional but potentially useful to sew up the free climbing on P3.
To free climb P1, the suggested rack is:
2 x .4 camalots
11x .5 camalots
10x .75 camalots
1x 1 camalot
Some webbing would be good to extend the summit anchors. They are currently Metolius rap hangers, but it wasn't an easy pull. If you don't have a 70m line you will absolutely have to extend the anchor since a knot surely won't pull.
To free climb P1, the suggested rack is:
2 x .4 camalots
11x .5 camalots
10x .75 camalots
1x 1 camalot
Some webbing would be good to extend the summit anchors. They are currently Metolius rap hangers, but it wasn't an easy pull. If you don't have a 70m line you will absolutely have to extend the anchor since a knot surely won't pull.
Photos
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