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Space Ghost

5.10, Trad, 230 ft (70 m), 3 pitches, Grade II,  Avg: 3 from 34 votes
FA: Tom Ghilje, Jasper Groff, 1995
Utah > Southeast Utah > Kane Springs Ca… > Ice Cream Parlor
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description

Pitch 1: Climb either the 5.6 corner or Parlor Games 5.9, continue past the first set of anchors to easy ground that is protected by bolts. End at a two bolt anchor below a flake.

Pitch 2: Continue up the flake that protects well with 2 #4 and a #2 Camelot in a horizontal. The flake ends at a ledge below a chimney. Continue up the chimney and not to the anchor on the right side of the ledge. This is a rap anchor. The route continues up the easy chimney to a wide hands to hands crack that leads out of the chimney to the right. End at the hidden belay station located just outside the chimney on a slanted ledge. (5.9)

Pitch 3: Down climb off the belay ledge back into the chimney then ascend a flared chimney with a fist to hands crack in the back of it. When you reach the roof at the end veer left to pass the roof. Long slings are needed to prevent rope drag while going over the roof. Build an anchor off a big boulder or a tree located to the right of the top out. (5.10)

Descent: The first rappel anchors are located up to your right as you top out. From there you can rap all the way to the ground with two 70 meter ropes or with a single 60 meter rope you can make four raps and a 70 meter rope gets you down in three raps.

Location

Space Ghost is the the far left crack system at the Ice Cream Parlor. The Original start was the 5.6 Corner but you can start a bit more direct on Parlor Game 5.9.
This route has a some loose rock at the ledges and is directly on top of a very popular area. Be careful when climbing it when there are crowds at the base.

Protection

Singles of .01 C2 to #1 cams, Doubles of #2 and #4 cams. Triples of #3 Bring a extra 3 and 4 size cams if you are not comfortable with the size. 10 draws, extending draws are nice for the last pitch.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

WARNING - DEATH BLOCK - Below the roof, top of pitch 3.  It will come straight out.  I marked it in white chalk X's as best I could, do not use.
[Hide Photo] WARNING - DEATH BLOCK - Below the roof, top of pitch 3. It will come straight out. I marked it in white chalk X's as best I could, do not use.
Great view of Ice Cream Parlor - we climbed it in 3 pitches.
[Hide Photo] Great view of Ice Cream Parlor - we climbed it in 3 pitches.
Looking down mid p3 at hidden p2 belay station.  Gear and rock is kinda junky here, but there's a great .3/.4 horizontal at the at the base of the roof before moving out left.
[Hide Photo] Looking down mid p3 at hidden p2 belay station. Gear and rock is kinda junky here, but there's a great .3/.4 horizontal at the at the base of the roof before moving out left.
Resting atop Space Ghost
[Hide Photo] Resting atop Space Ghost
Topo of P2 & P3 of Space Ghost. P1 can be Brush Your Teeth; 5.6 Corner; or a combination. Lots of options. Rap with +60m rope.
[Hide Photo] Topo of P2 & P3 of Space Ghost. P1 can be Brush Your Teeth; 5.6 Corner; or a combination. Lots of options. Rap with +60m rope.
Contemplating the roof. I placed an old #4 in the roof and sent. It's all there.
[Hide Photo] Contemplating the roof. I placed an old #4 in the roof and sent. It's all there.
second pitch flake, Climber is at a rappel
<br>
 anchor and not the Pitch three belay anchors
[Hide Photo] second pitch flake, Climber is at a rappel anchor and not the Pitch three belay anchors

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

John P McBride
Littleton CO
 
[Hide Comment] As the description says, be extremely careful of loose rock after the flake and into the chimney. When me and my partner did this, there was alot in this area. If you need to bail, after the flake, there are some rap anchors to the right on top of the flake.

Otherwise, this is a fantastic climb. The flake was really fun and kind of scary. Bring a #3 and #4 and enjoy! Jan 27, 2016
Joshua Griffin
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Loved this climb. Not much loose rock on the way. I belayed off the tree using my climbing rope to extend the belay all the way to the roof so there was less drag then walked over to the rock on the right to rappel. Mar 10, 2016
Mark Dunn
Denver, CO
  5.10a/b
[Hide Comment] Really fun climb. The first pitch isn't anything special, but P2 and P3 were fun. On P2 we used two #4s, but if you want to really sew it up you could use more. A little loose rock, but pretty easy to avoid. Pulling the roof there was some choss that we knocked off, so be aware of the crowd below

We did 3 raps with a single 70m, rapping from the top of each pitch. The top rap anchors had bolts and cordelette, but it seemed in good condition Jul 16, 2018
Eric Gratien
Moab, UT
 
[Hide Comment] This climb was in the shade in mid July until about 1:30 pm. Great morning summer route. With two 70m ropes you can rap all the way from the top to the ground. We kicked off some rock at the very top and on rappel on the way down. Jul 10, 2019
Adam Fleming
AMGA Certified Rock Guide,…
[Hide Comment] I cut out the tat. All anchors now have quicklinks.
Loose rock is mostly cleared up. Only issues are when you walk around on top after exiting p3 (be careful where your rope is running/resting) and the rap station in the middle of the descent. Oct 18, 2019
cascadian dirtbag
Pacific Northwest
[Hide Comment] Backed off the off-width flake today. Climbed Brush Your Teeth then continued on. Looks super fun but my off-width isn't up to par. I only had a single #4 and a single #5. Nov 18, 2020
Chris F.
San Jose, CA
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] CAUTION - DEATH BLOCK (Climbed on 5/4/24) - Under the roof of the last pitch, there is a microwave size block (posting to photos) that pulled out several inches with very little force. It's tempting to pull on but it will come straight out and hurt your party and anyone below. I marked it with chalk X's as best I could. Do not use under any circumstances. Hold broke on my partner when pulling over the roof as well. Lots of loose rock on the top - be very cautious with all the parties below. May 6, 2024
jefe Moab
  5.10a/b
[Hide Comment] P1 a bit under 115' total after continuing from the top of one of the left-most cragging routes on the slab up thru 5 or 6 bolts to chain anchor on ledge.
P2, the Flake Pitch is a blast; about 70 feet long. Place a bomber #2 in the horizontal low on the flake. Two #4's above this are adequate, but three made it chill. After the mantle on-top of the flake the pitch is easy 5th class up a blocky chimney. Then, follow the 10'-high #3 camalot crack to your right out of the flared chimney onto a pedestal with a hidden chain anchor.
P3 is about 70' long. Bump a #4 up about 15' and then place several #3's and a couple #2's to get up to the roof, then options for pro for the exit. Next time my rack will be: no nuts, singles up to #1, three-each #2's, #3's, and #4's.
Three clean raps with a 70m, straight down from the top. Oct 1, 2024
Colten Lay
Moab, UT
 
[Hide Comment] Great free solo climb with a mixture of offwidth and super secure chimneying. Nov 10, 2024