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Space Ghost
5.10,
Trad, 230 ft (70 m), 3 pitches, Grade II,
Avg: 3 from 34
votes
FA: Tom Ghilje, Jasper Groff, 1995
Utah
> Southeast Utah
> Kane Springs Ca…
> Ice Cream Parlor
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Pitch 1: Climb either the 5.6 corner or Parlor Games 5.9, continue past the first set of anchors to easy ground that is protected by bolts. End at a two bolt anchor below a flake.
Pitch 2: Continue up the flake that protects well with 2 #4 and a #2 Camelot in a horizontal. The flake ends at a ledge below a chimney. Continue up the chimney and not to the anchor on the right side of the ledge. This is a rap anchor. The route continues up the easy chimney to a wide hands to hands crack that leads out of the chimney to the right. End at the hidden belay station located just outside the chimney on a slanted ledge. (5.9)
Pitch 3: Down climb off the belay ledge back into the chimney then ascend a flared chimney with a fist to hands crack in the back of it. When you reach the roof at the end veer left to pass the roof. Long slings are needed to prevent rope drag while going over the roof. Build an anchor off a big boulder or a tree located to the right of the top out. (5.10)
Descent: The first rappel anchors are located up to your right as you top out. From there you can rap all the way to the ground with two 70 meter ropes or with a single 60 meter rope you can make four raps and a 70 meter rope gets you down in three raps.
Location
Space Ghost is the the far left crack system at the Ice Cream Parlor. The Original start was the 5.6 Corner but you can start a bit more direct on Parlor Game 5.9.
This route has a some loose rock at the ledges and is directly on top of a very popular area. Be careful when climbing it when there are crowds at the base.
Protection
Singles of .01 C2 to #1 cams, Doubles of #2 and #4 cams. Triples of #3 Bring a extra 3 and 4 size cams if you are not comfortable with the size. 10 draws, extending draws are nice for the last pitch.
[Hide Photo] WARNING - DEATH BLOCK - Below the roof, top of pitch 3. It will come straight out. I marked it in white chalk X's as best I could, do not use.
[Hide Photo] Great view of Ice Cream Parlor - we climbed it in 3 pitches.
[Hide Photo] Looking down mid p3 at hidden p2 belay station. Gear and rock is kinda junky here, but there's a great .3/.4 horizontal at the at the base of the roof before moving out left.
[Hide Photo] Resting atop Space Ghost
[Hide Photo] Topo of P2 & P3 of Space Ghost. P1 can be Brush Your Teeth; 5.6 Corner; or a combination. Lots of options. Rap with +60m rope.
[Hide Photo] Contemplating the roof. I placed an old #4 in the roof and sent. It's all there.
[Hide Photo] second pitch flake, Climber is at a rappel anchor and not the Pitch three belay anchors
Littleton CO
Otherwise, this is a fantastic climb. The flake was really fun and kind of scary. Bring a #3 and #4 and enjoy! Jan 27, 2016
Glenwood Springs, CO
Denver, CO
We did 3 raps with a single 70m, rapping from the top of each pitch. The top rap anchors had bolts and cordelette, but it seemed in good condition Jul 16, 2018
Moab, UT
AMGA Certified Rock Guide,…
Loose rock is mostly cleared up. Only issues are when you walk around on top after exiting p3 (be careful where your rope is running/resting) and the rap station in the middle of the descent. Oct 18, 2019
Pacific Northwest
San Jose, CA
P2, the Flake Pitch is a blast; about 70 feet long. Place a bomber #2 in the horizontal low on the flake. Two #4's above this are adequate, but three made it chill. After the mantle on-top of the flake the pitch is easy 5th class up a blocky chimney. Then, follow the 10'-high #3 camalot crack to your right out of the flared chimney onto a pedestal with a hidden chain anchor.
P3 is about 70' long. Bump a #4 up about 15' and then place several #3's and a couple #2's to get up to the roof, then options for pro for the exit. Next time my rack will be: no nuts, singles up to #1, three-each #2's, #3's, and #4's.
Three clean raps with a 70m, straight down from the top. Oct 1, 2024
Moab, UT