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Routes in J) Snake Buttress
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A Ketchum and Umbel Day T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Adam Ant T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Black Rider (aka Pocket Route) S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Bloodshot S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Bullet the New Sky S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Confirmation S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Dial 911 S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Discombobulated S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Dissonance S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Doug Reed Warmup S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Legacy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mississippi Learning S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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New World Order S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Razor Sharp T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Rock Lobster T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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S.T.A.N.C. T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Silent but Deadly S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Stolen Kisses T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sugar Bubbas S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Vulcan Block S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b A0 |
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| Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Doug Reed 1988 |
| Page Views: | 3,997 total · 27/month |
| Shared By: | Fred Gomez on Oct 4, 2012 · Updates |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS
Details
All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.
Description
Dissonance was the first 5.13 established on the Endless Wall. It has high quality stone, and a few intriguing moves, but the overall route quality does not reach the precedent set by routes likes Dial 911, Quinsana, The Racist or Black Rider. This route has got to be one of the reachiest routes at the New River Gorge, as many shorter climbers are rendered helpless at the mega undercling crux.
Begin by climbing through a roof, or simply reach past the roof with your feet on the ground if you are tall. Pulling the initial roof can be a bit challenging, but once established on the vertical face, the intensity eases for a few bolts. Expect 5.11+ climbing featuring long lock offs and technical footwork from the second to the sixth bolt. Bear down on some crimps, make some deep lock offs, and high step your way through the pre-crux between the sixth and seventh. Rest up a bit at the seventh, then launch into the engaging reachy crux. If you're six feet tall the crux is no big deal, but if you're short the crux will give you fits and likely send you packing for the RRG. Cool pocketed features and slopers guide you to the anchor.
A good strategy for attacking this route is to lower off of New World Order, hang draws and scope out the crux. It can be very difficult to spot hand holds in the crux region since the stone is pure white.
Begin by climbing through a roof, or simply reach past the roof with your feet on the ground if you are tall. Pulling the initial roof can be a bit challenging, but once established on the vertical face, the intensity eases for a few bolts. Expect 5.11+ climbing featuring long lock offs and technical footwork from the second to the sixth bolt. Bear down on some crimps, make some deep lock offs, and high step your way through the pre-crux between the sixth and seventh. Rest up a bit at the seventh, then launch into the engaging reachy crux. If you're six feet tall the crux is no big deal, but if you're short the crux will give you fits and likely send you packing for the RRG. Cool pocketed features and slopers guide you to the anchor.
A good strategy for attacking this route is to lower off of New World Order, hang draws and scope out the crux. It can be very difficult to spot hand holds in the crux region since the stone is pure white.
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