Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 1,324 total · 9/month |
Shared By: | Hiro Protagonist on Sep 30, 2012 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Road and Raptor Closures
Details
Per Ross Andrea: Ramparts Range Road is closed December 1.
March 1st-July 31st: Devil's Head Rock, Sin City, & Recovery Wall are closed for raptor protection. The vast majority of the other crags are unaffected by the closure. Please visit:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/psicc/al… for additional information and maps.
March 1st-July 31st: Devil's Head Rock, Sin City, & Recovery Wall are closed for raptor protection. The vast majority of the other crags are unaffected by the closure. Please visit:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/psicc/al… for additional information and maps.
Description
This is the left bolted route on the Gully Slab Wall. You can access the route by a short traverse from the belay ramp used for the other routes here, not a difficult move.
Climb more or less straight up the bolt line, it's decent rock and consistent climbing. Towards the top you reach a ledge shared by all three routes on this slab - this is probably the crux for many, as you need to climb up onto a slight overhang. By climbing all the routes on this wall, you could make various attempts on this top portion.
Climb more or less straight up the bolt line, it's decent rock and consistent climbing. Towards the top you reach a ledge shared by all three routes on this slab - this is probably the crux for many, as you need to climb up onto a slight overhang. By climbing all the routes on this wall, you could make various attempts on this top portion.
Location
This is at the far (left, north) end of the wall. After finding Radio Head, walk all the way along the wall where you'll likely spot the slab itself, but you'll also see a somewhat dirty gully which takes you up to it. There is ample space to sit, dump your gear at the top of the gully.
Protection
Six bolts (8?) (per Haas, Schneider, Weinhold), we toproped it after climbing Right of Center. There is a two bolt anchor at the top, centered on the slab, shared by all three routes here.
Note that the bolts are centered over the crack, so climbing the left or right on TR may result in a swing towards center - it should be a fairly safe swing, but you should warn your beginner climbers.
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