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Routes in Lower Breadloaves - Provo Wall
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Easy Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Finer Niner S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Forgotten Trails S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Greater Eighter S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Humble's Tumble T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Nogales T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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over hanging offwidth T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Provo S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Psycho Driller S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Riding on an Incline S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Sabbatical T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Something Sporting S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Tennish Anyone? T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Triple Roofs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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White Flake T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Bill Boyle, 1989 |
| Page Views: | 1,170 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | GRK on Sep 17, 2012 |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP
Details
(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner recently posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Description
This is the heavily textured face to the left of Provo. It begins up the shared crack, but breaks left towards a mini-roof and climbs awkward features up the face. Beautiful from the ground, don't be surprised if you're cursing this line a few moves in...
Start using small gear up the nice crack to gain a short, flat ledge. Work left towards the first bolt and get yourself set. The real climbing starts here and doesn't end until the high, third bolt. Precise movement and miniscule crimps help gain some ground, but don't let up, carry on to the redpoint crux, which is gaining the third clip. Finish the route up considerably easier terrain passing a few well-spaced bolts.
Really good, but really sparse, this line has misleading holds and questionable movement that will keep you on your toes. A serious endeavor, consider warming up on Provo and pre-hanging the first three draws.
Shorter folk may find this a tad less powerful as the feet are all high and lacking near the first bolt. Taller climbers may feel scrunched up and powerless, while the crimp masters may just crush this and look for something a little harder?
Start using small gear up the nice crack to gain a short, flat ledge. Work left towards the first bolt and get yourself set. The real climbing starts here and doesn't end until the high, third bolt. Precise movement and miniscule crimps help gain some ground, but don't let up, carry on to the redpoint crux, which is gaining the third clip. Finish the route up considerably easier terrain passing a few well-spaced bolts.
Really good, but really sparse, this line has misleading holds and questionable movement that will keep you on your toes. A serious endeavor, consider warming up on Provo and pre-hanging the first three draws.
Shorter folk may find this a tad less powerful as the feet are all high and lacking near the first bolt. Taller climbers may feel scrunched up and powerless, while the crimp masters may just crush this and look for something a little harder?
Photos
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