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| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 5 pitches |
| FA: | Trevor Bowman, et al. |
| Page Views: | 1,093 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Jason Todd on Sep 10, 2012 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Peregrine Nesting
Details
A pair of Peregrines have nested in various spots a couple hundred feet up the south face over the last few years. Do not climb routes adjacent to their nesting sites until mid-summer when they've left the nest. They will become agressive if they feel you're encroaching upon the nest!
Consider climbing elsewhere in the early summer, or on the West Prow and the Taurine Corridor.
Consider climbing elsewhere in the early summer, or on the West Prow and the Taurine Corridor.
Description
There are many variations possible to this fun climb. The description below is a clean and moderate path. Other variations are described in Rock Climbs of the Eastern Bighorns by Trevor Bowman.
P1- 5.7, 100': Follow discontinuous crack system on right side of the wall. After pulling small roof angle left to 2 bolt anchor. The protection is great even though it looks a bit intimidating from the ground.
P2- 5.8, 100': Climb past three bolts on fun face climbing. At third bolt follow blocky cracks to the right looking for fourth bolt below roof above. Pull the roof on big jugs and follow crack to ledge. 2 bolt anchor to left. Fun varied pitch.
P3- 5.8+, 80': Pull roof above anchor and traverse 10' left to crack. Follow crack to 2 bolt anchor above.
P4- 5.5, 60': Follow "dishy" face up above anchor while angling left, follow the path of least resistance to 2 bolt anchor. Other variations possible.
P5- 5.9, 60': From top of P4 move anchor 80' to east along huge ledge. Start 15' right of obvious splitter crack. Surmount the first move on big holds/heel hook and move into smooth slot above. Follow good crack to top. Gear anchor.
Descent: Walk off west from top of P5 to large ledge on the south. Follow ledge back to the top of P4 and do 4 rappels back to the base.
P1- 5.7, 100': Follow discontinuous crack system on right side of the wall. After pulling small roof angle left to 2 bolt anchor. The protection is great even though it looks a bit intimidating from the ground.
P2- 5.8, 100': Climb past three bolts on fun face climbing. At third bolt follow blocky cracks to the right looking for fourth bolt below roof above. Pull the roof on big jugs and follow crack to ledge. 2 bolt anchor to left. Fun varied pitch.
P3- 5.8+, 80': Pull roof above anchor and traverse 10' left to crack. Follow crack to 2 bolt anchor above.
P4- 5.5, 60': Follow "dishy" face up above anchor while angling left, follow the path of least resistance to 2 bolt anchor. Other variations possible.
P5- 5.9, 60': From top of P4 move anchor 80' to east along huge ledge. Start 15' right of obvious splitter crack. Surmount the first move on big holds/heel hook and move into smooth slot above. Follow good crack to top. Gear anchor.
Descent: Walk off west from top of P5 to large ledge on the south. Follow ledge back to the top of P4 and do 4 rappels back to the base.
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