Type: | Trad, Sport, 150 ft (45 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 1,966 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | Sarah Meiser on Sep 3, 2012 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Road and Raptor Closures
Details
Per Ross Andrea: Ramparts Range Road is closed December 1.
March 1st-July 31st: Devil's Head Rock, Sin City, & Recovery Wall are closed for raptor protection. The vast majority of the other crags are unaffected by the closure. Please visit:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/psicc/al… for additional information and maps.
March 1st-July 31st: Devil's Head Rock, Sin City, & Recovery Wall are closed for raptor protection. The vast majority of the other crags are unaffected by the closure. Please visit:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/psicc/al… for additional information and maps.
Description
This is a long and enjoyable single pitch mixed sport/trad line that I highly recommend if you're in the area and have trad gear along. It pairs very nicely with nearby Chickenhead which is also a quality 5.8 trad route.
The first half of the climb follows a friendly bolt line up an otherwise unprotectable slab on the lower part of the wall. A short, cruxy section of 5.8 slab is encountered down low, and then it's a rather easy romp to a bolted anchor. Don't stop here. You'll use this anchor to get down.
At this point, the character of the climb begins to change and it's time to put on your trad hat. Throw some gear in a vertical crack and work your way up to a huge roof. Traverse left under the roof with excellent protection. Near the left end of the roof, clip a bolt and pull over the roof (which is fairly small at this point). Follow a straightforward dihedral to the top anchor.
The first half of the climb follows a friendly bolt line up an otherwise unprotectable slab on the lower part of the wall. A short, cruxy section of 5.8 slab is encountered down low, and then it's a rather easy romp to a bolted anchor. Don't stop here. You'll use this anchor to get down.
At this point, the character of the climb begins to change and it's time to put on your trad hat. Throw some gear in a vertical crack and work your way up to a huge roof. Traverse left under the roof with excellent protection. Near the left end of the roof, clip a bolt and pull over the roof (which is fairly small at this point). Follow a straightforward dihedral to the top anchor.
Location
This route is on the right side of the Headstone and starts about 15 feet right of Remote Control. Look for several rather closely spaced bolts on a slab directly under a big, left-facing dihedral.
To descend, rappel the route. There is a bolted rappel station at the top and another one halfway down. The descent will require TWO rappels unless you have two ropes.
To descend, rappel the route. There is a bolted rappel station at the top and another one halfway down. The descent will require TWO rappels unless you have two ropes.
1 Comment