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Plastic Cat

5.12b X, Trad, 150 ft (45 m),  Avg: 4 from 3 votes
FA: Doug Reed, Tim Fisher 1987
N Carolina > 3. Piedmont Region > Hanging Rock SP > Moore's Wall (R… > Central Wall
Warning Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags DetailsDrop down

Description

A serious and rarely repeated route for hardman status. Start on a technical face left of Blue Chock or climb the initial layback on Blue Chock. Either way, end up at a stance just below the bulge feature on Blue Chock with underclings. Climb unprotected 5.9 up and left to a seam.
Keep on trucking to a fixed pin that leads to a bolt. Pull the crux and hold on to a stance. From here climb up through the overhangs with decent pro.

Location

Located right in between Head Jam and Blue Chock.

Protection

Take a light rack of standard cam sizes and nuts. Double ropes are recommended. Many descent options, either side has 4th class down climbs via gulleys, or locate a fixed rap anchor near Welcome to Moore's.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Austin Goff redpointing the rarely climbed Plastic Cat
[Hide Photo] Austin Goff redpointing the rarely climbed Plastic Cat
G. Loomis shaking out before heading up and left into the redpoint crux.
[Hide Photo] G. Loomis shaking out before heading up and left into the redpoint crux.
Seth in the first crux.
[Hide Photo] Seth in the first crux.
Seth Tart on the 3rd acsent. Porter Jarrard snagged the 2nd.  Photo: Demian MacDonald
[Hide Photo] Seth Tart on the 3rd acsent. Porter Jarrard snagged the 2nd. Photo: Demian MacDonald

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

S Tart
  5.12b X
[Hide Comment] Doug was before his time and this route is an amazing piece of work. Nov 7, 2014
timothy fisher
CHARLOTTE
[Hide Comment] I was not on the FA of this route. I belayed Doug with Noel Dent when Doug first worked on the route and placed the fixed gear. Porter was with Doug on the FA and also got the second ascent. Sep 4, 2022
Austin Goff
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.12 R
[Hide Comment] A beautiful romp up impeccable stone with just enough R to keep the pulse up. Best approached from Blue Chock traversing in from just above the opening dihedral. Run out traverse to small gear (bring your ball nuts and microstoppers to keep it R) and straight up to the first pin. Probably not worth stopping to clip the second pin.

True to the grade with other 5.12s at moores if not just a bit harder than Stars and Boogie. Easily a contender for best 12b/c in NC imo. Jul 3, 2024