To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments
so you only print what you need.
The Great Dihedral
5.9+ PG13,
Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 3 pitches, Grade II,
Avg: 3.7 from 46
votes
FA: Geoff Smith, Dave Hough 10/1975. Free ascent: Richard Goldstone, Ivan Rezucha 6/1976. First ascent pitch 3: Geoff Smith, Dave Hough 8/1976
New York
> Adirondacks
> A: Lake Champla…
> Poke-O-Moonshine
> Main Face
Access Issue: Peregrine closures and approach trail issues
Details
Access to the Main Face is often limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting. Check the DEC web site (www.dec.ny.gov, search for "peregrine route closures"). Closures are posted in the kiosk at the beginning of the approach trail in the (now closed) Poke-O Campground.
Several recent incidents at the Poke-O Moonshine Main Face have heightened tensions with neighboring landowners.
Shortcut Trail (aka the Smitty Trail): The main approach goes from the (now closed) campground to the cliff near Discord. There is a shortcut trail on the right that provides access to the cliff near Pentecostal. This shortcut trail crosses the edges of two parcels of private land, and was closed in the spring of 2014. As of Aug 30, 2014, this trail is open on a tentative basis. Stay on the trail; there are some cairns and Access Fund signage to help.
Northern Trail Closure (aka the Easy Living Trail): There is an old trail that connects US 9 with the cliff near Psalm 32. This trail is entirely on private land and should NOT be used by climbers; indeed, it has been closed and undocumented for many years. Both ends of this trail are now marked with signs courtesy of the Access Fund.
In short, while visiting the Main Face, approach from the campground, and stay on the main trail along the base of the cliff.
Description
The obvious right facing dihedral that starts about 100 ft. off the ground. P1 starts by climbing cracks and blocks to a belay below the roof that is the base of the corner 5.8 (an uninteresting pitch) 100 ft. P2 climb up from the belay into the roof/chimney and then make a weird move back down and to the right to get established in the corner. Climb the beautiful dihedral (fingers, hands, stemming, a little OW ) for 150 ft. Maybe the best 5.9 pitch in the Adirondacks with excellent pro. P3 look for a bolt directly above then climb out right about 15 ft. then back left to clip the bolt then wander to the top looking for gear placements 5.8 pg13. A committing lead that is seldom done. Most parties rap from anchors at the top of the corner.
Location
This is the right facing corner of the huge block with the Snatch (left side corner). It's start is just before you head downhill toward Gamesmanship. Most parties rappel the route after P2 with 2 ropes.
Protection
A full rack up to #4 camalot.The corner takes wires nicely. There is a bolt on the face out left (another climb) that you can clip while doing the short offwidth section. Use long runners before the roof or backclean to reduce ropedrag. Anchors at the first belay and bolt anchors at the top of the corner.
![Getting established in the Diheadral after clearing the awkward crux roof at the start of pitch 2]()
[Hide Photo] Getting established in the Diheadral after clearing the awkward crux roof at the start of pitch 2
![Top of pitch one]()
[Hide Photo] Top of pitch one
![Bailing after being foxed by the move into the dihedral. Too bad. Around 1993.]()
[Hide Photo] Bailing after being foxed by the move into the dihedral. Too bad. Around 1993.
Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Poughkeepsie, NY
After Pitch 2, Ivan and I declined to try the unprotected-looking current Pitch 3 and instead finished via the SRT. I later returned and did Pitch 3, but by then Smith and Hough had returned themselves and done it, placing a bolt after a very awkward and trying unprotected traverse.
Thus the first free ascent of the complete route was by Smith and Hough in 1976. However, it seems that their third pitch has never found much favor, and so most parties end their engagement with the first two pitches freed by Ivan and me. Mar 1, 2013
Albany, NY
Latham, NY
I recommend building a gear anchor at the top of pitch one above the chockstone that is wrapped with tat that normally passes for the anchor. You'll be a lot more comfortable: no hanging belay. Threrfore bring an extra #2 & #3 for that.
I got by using only the lone fixed sling for the Houdini slot crux but looking back that wasn't the safest. I recommend a #3 or #4 deep in the top of the slot for that crux. The rest can go with a single set of cams. In fact the small ones can be replaced by nuts only. Only other thing I recommend is to skip the bolt protection of the off width and do it with a little more style: bring a #5 or #6. They might need to be buried but hey.
Also the rope will really drag if its been pulled in under the slot so take care to extnd those pieces adequately. Aug 25, 2013
Poughkeepsie, NY
I protected the exit from what now seems to be called the Houdini Slot by climbing up into it, reaching around to the outside, and placing a nut in the crack in the dihedral. Normally, this would be a totally blind placement but in this case I could observe what I was doing from "inside" the crack because of my position in the slot. This gave overhead protection for the moves out of the slot and only required a normal-sized piece of gear, as did the rest of the route. Apr 29, 2014
Orford, NH
It is an aesthetic, dramatic, exposed, clean, sweeping dihedral that is uncharacteristic of most climbs in the East.
This climb is underappreciated and under-climbed.
The gear is good in my opinion.
It is stout and sustained! "5.9" for the 5.10 climber. If you are solid at the 5.10 grade you need to get on this. Bring some rp's for the thin section leading into the chimney as I recall.
If you link the first two pitches from the ground you create a tremendous marathon pitch - perhaps the greatest single pitch at Poke-O!!!! Jun 19, 2015
Kingston, ny
This is very sustained and very involved. I'm not very good with dihedrals but it kicked my @##. Feels more like a .10 than a .9 and it has a very unusual crux. I imagine a lot of 5.10 face climbers get shut down by this.
Awesome and unique moves. Overall a great climb.
- **
We moved the belay up above the rap station built with larger gear. Both belays are cramped but the above one is much better. There might be a chance that the climber could land on the belayer if they blow the crux! (An added incentive for success.)A 70m rope allows for a rap from atop the second pitch with a few extra feet (knots!) Jun 2, 2016
Montreal, QC
New Hampshire
Bellevue, WA