All Locations > New York > Adirondacks > A: Lake Champla… > Poke-O-Moonshine > Poke-O-Moonshine Main…

The Great Dihedral

Name: The Great Dihedral
Rating: 3.7

5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British PG13

Routes in Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face

L › R R › L A › Z

	7 year itch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Air Male S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
	Ancient of Days T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Arch Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Autumn Flare T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Bastard T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
	Bloody Mary T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Borderline T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Bushido T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	C-Tips S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Calvary Hill S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Casual Observer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Certified Raw T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Chik'n Garbonzo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Cirrhosis T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Cooney-Norton T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Cosmopolitan Wall T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Crux Capacitor T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Discord T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Earthly Night S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Easy Street T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Extreme Unction T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Fastest Gun, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Firing Line T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
	FM, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Foreplay T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Freedom Flight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Gamesmanship T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Gathering, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	God's Grace (Pure and Simple) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Grapes of Wrath T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Great Dihedral, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Green Onion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Group Therapy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Gun Control T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Gun Control Now T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Hang 'Em High T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Home Rule S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Home Run Derby T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Homecoming S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Howling, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	In Vivo T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	It Don't Come Easy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Junior Varsity T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Karmic Kickback T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Keep Off Flake T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	La Spirale T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13
	Ladder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Lex Luther T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Lost Chance aka The Natural T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Macho T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
	Macrobiotic T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Maestro T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Mayflower T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Menace To Sobriety S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Mogster S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Morning Star T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Munchky Microarete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	P.T. Pillar T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Pandemonium T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Paralysis T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Pearly Gates T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Pentecostal S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Phase III T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Pilgrim's Progress T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Pillar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Psalm 32 T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Psychosis T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Puppies on Edge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Ragtime T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
	Raindance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Raptor's Scream S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Rapture, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Salad Days S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Scallion T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Sea of seams S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Shark Week T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Sharpening the Blade T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Smallville Left S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Smear Campaign T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Snake Slide T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Snake, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
	Snatch, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Son of a Mother T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Son of Slime T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Southern Hospitality p1 T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Static Cling S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Sting, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Summer Break T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
	Sunburst Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Thunderhead T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Time Jumpers T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Ukiah S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Under the Influence T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	Varsity T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Verdon S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Waterloo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

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Type:	Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 3 pitches, Grade II
FA:	Richard Goldstone and Ivan Rezucha 7/1976
Page Views:	6,603 total · 44/month
Shared By:	Ed Wade on Aug 19, 2012
Admins:	Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Peregrine closures and approach trail issues Details

Access to the Main Face is often limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting. Check the DEC web site (www.dec.ny.gov, search for "peregrine route closures"). Closures are posted in the kiosk at the beginning of the approach trail in the (now closed) Poke-O Campground.

Several recent incidents at the Poke-O Moonshine Main Face have heightened tensions with neighboring landowners.

Shortcut Trail (aka the Smitty Trail): The main approach goes from the (now closed) campground to the cliff near Discord. There is a shortcut trail on the right that provides access to the cliff near Pentecostal. This shortcut trail crosses the edges of two parcels of private land, and was closed in the spring of 2014. As of Aug 30, 2014, this trail is open on a tentative basis. Stay on the trail; there are some cairns and Access Fund signage to help.

Northern Trail Closure (aka the Easy Living Trail): There is an old trail that connects US 9 with the cliff near Psalm 32. This trail is entirely on private land and should NOT be used by climbers; indeed, it has been closed and undocumented for many years. Both ends of this trail are now marked with signs courtesy of the Access Fund.

In short, while visiting the Main Face, approach from the campground, and stay on the main trail along the base of the cliff.

Description

The obvious right facing dihedral that starts about 100 ft. off the ground. P1 starts by climbing cracks and blocks to a belay below the roof that is the base of the corner 5.8 (an uninteresting pitch) 100 ft. P2 climb up from the belay into the roof/chimney and then make a weird move back down and to the right to get established in the corner. Climb the beautiful dihedral (fingers, hands, stemming, a little OW ) for 150 ft. Maybe the best 5.9 pitch in the Adirondacks with excellent pro. P3 look for a bolt directly above then climb out right about 15 ft. then back left to clip the bolt then wander to the top looking for gear placements 5.8 pg13. A committing lead that is seldom done. Most parties rap from anchors at the top of the corner.

Location

This is the right facing corner of the huge block with the Snatch (left side corner). It's start is just before you head downhill toward Gamesmanship. Most parties rappel the route after P2 with 2 ropes.

Protection

A full rack up to #4 camalot.The corner takes wires nicely. There is a bolt on the face out left (another climb) that you can clip while doing the short offwidth section. Use long runners before the roof or backclean to reduce ropedrag. Anchors at the first belay and bolt anchors at the top of the corner.