Type: | Trad, 750 ft (227 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | Jeff Popko and Chris Righter |
Page Views: | 4,718 total · 30/month |
Shared By: | jeffro popko on Aug 12, 2012 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Per Matt Lisenby: South Chasm View closure is lifted.
nps.gov/blca/planyourvisit/…
Climbing Route Closures
PRECAUTIONARY CLOSURE DUE TO POTENTIAL ROCKFALL
Part of South Chasm View Wall is closed due to a 300' x 40' slab of rock that shifted one inch in one week. The slab is estimated to weigh 6 million pounds or more. The NPS is consulting with geohazards specialists for further direction.
The following routes are closed:
The Night is Dark & Full of Terrors
The Flakes
5.11+ Alternate Start
Astrodog
Tague Yer Time
Shadow Boxing
The Black Hole
See nps.gov/blca/planyourvisit/… for updates.
nps.gov/blca/planyourvisit/…
Climbing Route Closures
PRECAUTIONARY CLOSURE DUE TO POTENTIAL ROCKFALL
Part of South Chasm View Wall is closed due to a 300' x 40' slab of rock that shifted one inch in one week. The slab is estimated to weigh 6 million pounds or more. The NPS is consulting with geohazards specialists for further direction.
The following routes are closed:
The Night is Dark & Full of Terrors
The Flakes
5.11+ Alternate Start
Astrodog
Tague Yer Time
Shadow Boxing
The Black Hole
See nps.gov/blca/planyourvisit/… for updates.
Description
The Quota is a shorter route on the south rim with an ultra stellar crux. The sun hits around noon, so it's best to get an early start so as to not bake through the hard pitches or the first two hanging belays (summer beta). If you like the idea of pulling a perfect, huge roof 200 feet off the deck, you should do this route.
P1: go up crack below the roof, come up under the bolt, clip and go left and up to the belay. 5.11-, 115 feet.
P2: Sick. Climb up past two bolts and re-enter the main crack. Go up and out the roof, clip the anti-gear snatcher, turn the roof, and go to the belay. Save a #2 for right after the roof turn. 5.12a, 85 feet.
P3: continue straight up obvious crack, mount a big block, and go up through easy OW to a big ol' belay ledge. 5.10, 120 feet.
P4: pop up through the chimney and climb through the corner on good rock up to the belay on the beach. 5.7, 120 feet.
P5: go up thin seems above the belay and then walk/climb up left to the bigger ledge guarded by some junk rock and a big chockstone (visible from belay). The chockstone doesn't seem totally solid, so be cautious. Go up to the peg band, clip the bolt, and climb the worm hole. At the top of worm hole, go left to find the big grassy ledge. Save a #1, 2, and 3 for the belay. 5.9, 210 feet.
P6: go up the crack and traverse left until you find the big, bushy ramp going up to the right. Walk up and climb out a little chimney and belay somewhere to the right of the topout. Done. 5.8/5th class, 100 feet.
P1: go up crack below the roof, come up under the bolt, clip and go left and up to the belay. 5.11-, 115 feet.
P2: Sick. Climb up past two bolts and re-enter the main crack. Go up and out the roof, clip the anti-gear snatcher, turn the roof, and go to the belay. Save a #2 for right after the roof turn. 5.12a, 85 feet.
P3: continue straight up obvious crack, mount a big block, and go up through easy OW to a big ol' belay ledge. 5.10, 120 feet.
P4: pop up through the chimney and climb through the corner on good rock up to the belay on the beach. 5.7, 120 feet.
P5: go up thin seems above the belay and then walk/climb up left to the bigger ledge guarded by some junk rock and a big chockstone (visible from belay). The chockstone doesn't seem totally solid, so be cautious. Go up to the peg band, clip the bolt, and climb the worm hole. At the top of worm hole, go left to find the big grassy ledge. Save a #1, 2, and 3 for the belay. 5.9, 210 feet.
P6: go up the crack and traverse left until you find the big, bushy ramp going up to the right. Walk up and climb out a little chimney and belay somewhere to the right of the topout. Done. 5.8/5th class, 100 feet.
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