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> Brighton's Frighton Wall
Fin Of Fear
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.2 from 42
votes
Routes in Brighton's Frighton Wall
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Fin Of Fear T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fret Arête S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Magic Flakes T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mary's Mustache T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rusty Blade T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Scream Seam T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Twinkie's Hatchet T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Twinkies Hatchet West T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Unknown T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Unknown Bolted Dihedral S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Unknown Bolted Slab S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Wedge, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Worry Wart T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | James Garrett and Nate Bryan, July 2012 |
| Page Views: | 1,846 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | James Garrett on Jul 12, 2012 |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Description
A massive sharp tipped "fin" with a very broad base sits on a solid perch about 3/4 of the way up the line.
Pitch #1: Really fun lay backing or hand jams up a wide crack (plenty of smaller protection options on both sides) leads to the scary looking fin. It would not even budge for me...I can't really envision it leaving its perch, but it is still quite daunting and exciting to climb past it. You can completely avoid it by climbing thin fun moves to the right. A few more face moves up lichen splattered rock leads to a two-bolt belay. 5.8, 20m.
Rappel the route. Consider rappelling to the left of the Fin if you get the same concerns as we did? I know I will do this route again and again.
Pitch #1: Really fun lay backing or hand jams up a wide crack (plenty of smaller protection options on both sides) leads to the scary looking fin. It would not even budge for me...I can't really envision it leaving its perch, but it is still quite daunting and exciting to climb past it. You can completely avoid it by climbing thin fun moves to the right. A few more face moves up lichen splattered rock leads to a two-bolt belay. 5.8, 20m.
Rappel the route. Consider rappelling to the left of the Fin if you get the same concerns as we did? I know I will do this route again and again.
3 Comments