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Routes in (f) Hydrotube Area
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Acne Problem S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Apache Acid S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Clearisil S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Games Without Frontiers S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hydrotube S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Off Ramp, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Scarface S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Shingles S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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This Ain't No Disco S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Vortex S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 165 ft (50 m) |
| FA: | Bill Soule, 2010 |
| Page Views: | 1,396 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | j-dubs on Jul 8, 2012 |
| Admins: | Kristin Tippey, JD Merritt, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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Description
This is a newer route that is not in the Orton guidebook.
Climb up through underclings and smeary feet to a balancy crux around the third bolt. After a small bulge, the route moves up and left, following a vast slab for another 100+ feet. The slab features much easier climbing than the start but offers plenty of opportunities to blow it. When the angle kicks back even more, belay from a pair of old bolts (these are also the top anchors for Apache Acid) or scramble about 30 feet higher and belay from a pair of glue-ins. It took almost all of a 70m rope to reach the glue-ins, so I'm not sure whether you could go that far on a 60m.
A new intermediate anchor has been added, providing the option of climbing the steeper bottom section and skipping about half of the slab.
Climb up through underclings and smeary feet to a balancy crux around the third bolt. After a small bulge, the route moves up and left, following a vast slab for another 100+ feet. The slab features much easier climbing than the start but offers plenty of opportunities to blow it. When the angle kicks back even more, belay from a pair of old bolts (these are also the top anchors for Apache Acid) or scramble about 30 feet higher and belay from a pair of glue-ins. It took almost all of a 70m rope to reach the glue-ins, so I'm not sure whether you could go that far on a 60m.
A new intermediate anchor has been added, providing the option of climbing the steeper bottom section and skipping about half of the slab.
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