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Routes in Mountain Rose
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Ancient of Days, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Axed S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Better You Than Me / Around the Corner S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Big Tuna S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Coming Up Roses S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dirty Rose S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Don't Tell Nancy (in memory of Dave Turner) S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Geezer Squeezer T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Golden Rose S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Grizzly Rose S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Heat Wave S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hummingbird T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Mantlefesto S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Mind Yer Business S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Mountain Rose T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Rainbow Runner S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Rose of Alabamy S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Short But Sweet T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Short Sport Route S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Sick Puppy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Steel Pulse S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Stem Cell Therapy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Wahoo S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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War Drums T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Wynona's Big Brown Beaver S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Wyoming Prairie Dogs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Yellow Tail S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: |
Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
Fixed Hardware
(1) |
| FA: | Mike Darrah and Chuck McGrosky, 1989 |
| Page Views: | 1,281 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Mark Roth on Jun 30, 2012 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!)
Details
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
This is a great climb. I hope this one doesn't get "modernized" as it wouldn't be as fun without the fear factor.
The mental crux is getting to the first bolt, and the thinnest climbing is the section around the first 2 bolts. There is basically no gear until the first bolt, but the climbing isn't hard and you can get a small cam right bellow the bolt. From here up, there is plenty of tiny gear if you look for it. Small Aliens, C3s, pink tri-cams in flared horizontal slots. The biggest thing you need is a 0.5 C4 (purple). It goes in the only gear placement you can see from the ground.... After the 2nd bolt, things ease up and at a tiny twig of a tree you have to make a decision. You can head up right, which looks really easy, or stay to the left and move up into a steep pegmatite section. Only then will you see the last bolt a 1/4 inch button head. Hopefully you have placed some gear in-between the bolts? The steep part is fun and easy, but you never know when one of those big crystals will just fall off and you probably don't want to test that bolt! Head up to the tree and wonder if it will support your weight....
This route has some of the best rock on this crag. I think it was spared from the dynamite? Steep slab moves and easy face climbing with a touch of excitement.
The mental crux is getting to the first bolt, and the thinnest climbing is the section around the first 2 bolts. There is basically no gear until the first bolt, but the climbing isn't hard and you can get a small cam right bellow the bolt. From here up, there is plenty of tiny gear if you look for it. Small Aliens, C3s, pink tri-cams in flared horizontal slots. The biggest thing you need is a 0.5 C4 (purple). It goes in the only gear placement you can see from the ground.... After the 2nd bolt, things ease up and at a tiny twig of a tree you have to make a decision. You can head up right, which looks really easy, or stay to the left and move up into a steep pegmatite section. Only then will you see the last bolt a 1/4 inch button head. Hopefully you have placed some gear in-between the bolts? The steep part is fun and easy, but you never know when one of those big crystals will just fall off and you probably don't want to test that bolt! Head up to the tree and wonder if it will support your weight....
This route has some of the best rock on this crag. I think it was spared from the dynamite? Steep slab moves and easy face climbing with a touch of excitement.
Location
This route is on the face just right of the big Hummingbird corner. Look for two bolts a ways up.
5 Comments