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Routes in Memorial Day Buttress
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High School Drop Out T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Graduate School T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Small Brain T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Casual n' Kind T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Aggression T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Memorial Day Route T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Mouth Variation, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Eyebrow T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dave Anderson Memorial Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2- PG13 |
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Pork Shoulder T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Judas Priest T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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Tombstone Left T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tombstone Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Merrill Bitter, Bobby Rotert, Les Ellison 1982 |
| Page Views: | 1,363 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Spencer Weiler on Jun 26, 2012 · Updates |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Is it worth hiking up there? Its a good option after Bong Eater or The Burner routes, but no classic for sure.
Lieback up the lower angle 5.9 corner with great feet and gear to reach the first bolt, after which a fun leg swing mantle move gets you to bolt 2 and a bomber rest. Here, the route diverges two ways. Both are excellent, so do both. Your first option is to head straight up, clipping a bolt over your head and doing a difficult undercling to slapping a wide groove while mantling action onto the slab whereupon you find yourself at the chains. Tricky.
Option 2, and I believe the original way, is to continue traversing out right past 2 more pitons, then pulling the roof again by mantling with a decent chickenhead for a handhold. This felt a bit easier than the direct option, only because it was more obvious.
Lieback up the lower angle 5.9 corner with great feet and gear to reach the first bolt, after which a fun leg swing mantle move gets you to bolt 2 and a bomber rest. Here, the route diverges two ways. Both are excellent, so do both. Your first option is to head straight up, clipping a bolt over your head and doing a difficult undercling to slapping a wide groove while mantling action onto the slab whereupon you find yourself at the chains. Tricky.
Option 2, and I believe the original way, is to continue traversing out right past 2 more pitons, then pulling the roof again by mantling with a decent chickenhead for a handhold. This felt a bit easier than the direct option, only because it was more obvious.
Location
While this route is located under the Memorial Day Buttress area and most start from Crescent, I find it easier to approach from Bong Eater. Hike up to Bong Eater from the Park and Ride, then schwak directly east to the boulder talus gully. Hike straight up this talus to the crag, jungle thrashing the last 20 feet to reach the belay stance. Its a right facing corner with roofs at the top on darker granite rock. Look for the bolts. This route sits alone, below and southwest of Memorial proper.
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