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The Assman
5.11a/b,
Sport, 60 ft (18 m),
Avg: 2.5 from 80
votes
FA: unknown
Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Northern Wasatch
> Cache Valley
> Blacksmith Fork…
> Left Hand Fork
> Hardware Wall
Access Issue: Do not park in the camping/parking area that has the river crossing for the Hardware Wall between June 15 and October 1
Details
There is sometimes a sign that says no camping, but according to the rangers it also means no parking. This pullout is rented by the Stockman Cattle Ranch between those dates and they need to be able to back up their trailer into this spot to put cattle in the corral. It's very important to respect this rule. We could lose access to this area if our relationship with the rangers deteriorates over this issue. Based on numerous interactions with the rangers, it is clear that they are watching out for climbers. Please park under the trees out by the road or in the big open field adjacent to the horse pens. Please pick up your trash (maybe some of the redneck's trash too), pack out your poop, and be polite.
Description
This climb is mostly a jug haul with a crux of completely opposite character. A few of the jugs are greasy, but it does not affect the nature of the climb. Climb up lower angle terrain to a small bulge. Getting on top of this is the technical (and mental) crux. Its a very fun and cool move/position and definitely the highlight. The falls are very safe, but you'll see. After this, finish on juggish holds to the anchors. Very good warmup climb for the area.
Location
This route is about 3-4 climbs over from the left. It obvious with lower angle terrain featuring massive chalked jugs, as it is the easiest route at the crag.
Protection
8 bolts to chains and biners. Some of the hangers are horizontal, so pay attention to how your draw will lay on it after you move above it.
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Salt Lake City