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Karmic Whiplash
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 3.9 from 28
votes
Routes in Dark Star Gully
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Birds, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Black Heart T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X |
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Dark Star T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Darwin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fine Arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Karmic Whiplash S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Scratch My Back S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Spring Fling T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Spring into Action S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wraith, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 55 ft (17 m) |
| FA: | Doug Heinrich, Kevin Fosburg, 1996 |
| Page Views: | 3,493 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | John Steiger on Jun 22, 2012 |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Description
If 12a/b is your standard, warm up on The Wraith, then test your karma on this. Karmic Whiplash opens up with technical and powerful moves on great rock past three bolts to a rest of sorts, then takes big flat holds leading left and up on easier but pumpy ground past three more bolts to chains. Slightly overhanging the whole way. Consider using a stick clip for the first bolt; a bone-snapping landing awaits the bold but careless. Unlike The Wraith, Karmic Whiplash's bolts all look good. Better than Big in Japan, IMO.
There's a two-bolt extension that heads left from the last bolt before the chains, which apparently was added sometime after publication of the Ruckmans' guide in 1998 (the extension is not shown in their guide). We didn't climb it, but my bet is that it bumps the grade up a notch or two; if you do it, post up!
There's a two-bolt extension that heads left from the last bolt before the chains, which apparently was added sometime after publication of the Ruckmans' guide in 1998 (the extension is not shown in their guide). We didn't climb it, but my bet is that it bumps the grade up a notch or two; if you do it, post up!
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