Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft (12 m)
FA: Eric Guerrin
Page Views: 2,772 total · 18/month
Shared By: Justin Mech on Jun 13, 2012 · Updates
Admins: Justin Johnsen, SCPC, SWPACC, EPAC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Look for the large laying back ships prow. Start near the left side of this wall. 15 feet up or so, start to move to the right to the edge of the prow and then continue up and back left. USE A BACK ROPE TO AVOID A SWINGING DANGER, FALLING LOW WILL ALMOST PROMISE A SWING INTO A ROCK.

Location Suggest change

Left of the R.O.T.C. Wall, look for the obvious overhanging juggy ships prow.

Protection Suggest change

Bolted Anchors

Massively overhanging toprope routes like this have a risk of groundfall until you are sufficiently high up the route using the normal anchors.  On Peter Pan, this is ~15-20' up, basically right before you enter the large overhang.  There are a few approaches to climb this safely:

1. Set up dual belays and have two belayers, using both the Peter Pan anchors and the All Hands or Deck / Tinker Bell's Escape anchors.  The All Hands or Deck belay will keep you safe for the first section, then the main Peter Pan belay will keep you safe for the main section.  This setup can sometimes keep you close enough to the wall to get back on if you fall on the overhang, instead of taking the big swing and starting over.

2. Climb the first half of Tinker Bell's Escape off of its anchors until you have it dialed to where you are confident you won't fall when you climb Pan, since they share this section.

3. Use a crash pad and practice the start as a boulder until you have it dialed.  This is the only option for "Peter Pan Direct", starting on the right side of the Prow.

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