Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
FA: | Nathan Brown - rope solo |
Page Views: | 1,106 total · 7/month |
Shared By: | nbrown on Jun 1, 2012 |
Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Access Issue: 2023 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th)
Details
fs.usda.gov/detail/nfsnc/ne…
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags
Details
The CCC has created the list linked below of accessible and inaccessible climbing areas with some caveats. If you decide to head out for a day of climbing, please do not attempt to go to those marked ‘inaccessible’. Please note that all areas in WNC will have extensive tree damage and if you head out, use extra caution for all the trees above, especially on a windy day. Rock fall potential is also highest after a big weather event. Please use extra caution while climbing and prepare to self rescue if injured. Injury response time will be greatly limited for any injury currently, especially for a remote injury. Cell service is limited in all areas. Parking at accessible crags in the WNC/ Upstate SC region will likely be challenging. If the parking lot is full, go to a different area and do not park illegally or in a road. Make a plan B before leaving your house. Expect road detours on the way to the crag. NCdrive.gov updates road closures. Once you get to the crag, expect many trees blocking access trails and of course, come volunteer with the CCC to help us bring our climbing areas back!
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
Description
A direct link-up (casual corner to crimson corner) was recently added that improves the quality of this line, making it a worthwhile route to do.
Start by climbing about 1/3 of casual corner to a point at which it is possible to move left on the overhanging featured arete with bolts. Climb past the bolts to merge into the upper dihedral of crimson corner. Follow it past a bolt to one last bolt above the crux (out of sight from below). Lower from same anchors on ledge.
If you want to do the origial route consider doing it as 2 short pitches due to rope drag. Directions are as folows:
Climb easier, semi loose terrain to an easy left facing corner (out of sight from ground). At a large hollow block, move right (using the block), traversing under an overhang to a stance at the base of the crimson colored corner. Climb this past a bolt and some cryptic moves to another bolt (shared with Creepy Corner). Finish same as for Creepy Corner at the 2 bolt anchor on the ledge above.
Start by climbing about 1/3 of casual corner to a point at which it is possible to move left on the overhanging featured arete with bolts. Climb past the bolts to merge into the upper dihedral of crimson corner. Follow it past a bolt to one last bolt above the crux (out of sight from below). Lower from same anchors on ledge.
If you want to do the origial route consider doing it as 2 short pitches due to rope drag. Directions are as folows:
Climb easier, semi loose terrain to an easy left facing corner (out of sight from ground). At a large hollow block, move right (using the block), traversing under an overhang to a stance at the base of the crimson colored corner. Climb this past a bolt and some cryptic moves to another bolt (shared with Creepy Corner). Finish same as for Creepy Corner at the 2 bolt anchor on the ledge above.
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