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> Mt Diablo SP
> Pine Canyon
> Flintstone Rock
The Quarry
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3 from 28
votes
Routes in Flintstone Rock
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Quarry, The S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Oona Kuma S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Yabba Dabba Dudes S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Oona Kuma Direct S,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Pigeon Tunnel TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Sport, TR, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Rances Rodriguez, April 17, 2012 |
| Page Views: | 4,293 total · 27/month |
| Shared By: | R Rod on May 28, 2012 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock
Details
Castle Rock in Pine Canyon and the Wanna Get Away areas are closed for peregrine falcon nesting season, from February 1 through July 31st every year. All other Mount Diablo area crags are open to climbing. The news release is linked here parks.ca.gov/NewsRelease/493.
Access Issue: No wet climbing
Details
Don't climb this area for at least 3 days after a rain storm. The rock is fragile and needs time to dry.
Description
The route start on the right side of the cave of Flintstone Rock and traverse left along the lip of the cave. After third bolt the line jumps on the headwall following a series of pockets and crimps. Cruxes are gaining the head wall and at the very top right before gaining some juggy huecos on technical moves before reaching the anchors.
Location
On Flintstone Rock, which has a huge arching cave at the base of the cliff on the left. Lower off or walk off. First two bolts are on right side of the cave above a diagonal, linear flake that's about 8 feet long.
Protection
10 bolts with 2 chain anchors. Retro-bolted 3 of the bolts on the headwall, now the bolt line is linear so that regular quickdraws can be used on the headwall with no concern for rope drag. Still would recommend draws on the longer side though. On the 3rd bolt use 120 cm sling and on the 2nd and 4th bolt 80 cm slings roughly. Due to the nature of the rock on the starting traverse, the bolts were placed in unconventional spots, that would create major rope drag with normal draws, but placed them in solid rock to avoid drilling into weak rock such as patinas; thus the the need for long slings.
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