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The Skin Flute Couloir
5.5 YDS 4b French 13 Ewbanks IV+ UIAA 11 ZA MS 4a British AI3 M2 Steep Snow
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in Fluted Peak
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Skin Flute Couloir, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a AI3 M2 Steep Snow |
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| Type: | Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 1400 ft (424 m), Grade III |
| FA: | Justin Watts, Derek Wolfe, |
| Page Views: | 2,857 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Furthermore on May 21, 2012 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
From the base of Fluted's East Face, climb the prominent couloir in the middle of the face just south of the summit.
The climb starts as a moderate snow climb until two short AI2/M1-2 sections are encountered. After climbing past these 2 rock/ice bands, the crux is encountered. Either climb a short 30-40 foot AI3 pitch or a 100 foot mixed chimney (M2/5.3) on the right. The climb continues as a moderate snow climb until nearing the top. If a cornice blocks further progress in the main couloir, take a hidden left spur couloir ~100 feet below the ridge.
The top of the left spur becomes a steep snow climb. From the ridge, hike 3 minutes to the summit.
The best descent is to either climb up and over Little Horn Peak or descend Flute's north ridge to the Fluted-Horn saddle and then back to Dry Lakes.
The climb starts as a moderate snow climb until two short AI2/M1-2 sections are encountered. After climbing past these 2 rock/ice bands, the crux is encountered. Either climb a short 30-40 foot AI3 pitch or a 100 foot mixed chimney (M2/5.3) on the right. The climb continues as a moderate snow climb until nearing the top. If a cornice blocks further progress in the main couloir, take a hidden left spur couloir ~100 feet below the ridge.
The top of the left spur becomes a steep snow climb. From the ridge, hike 3 minutes to the summit.
The best descent is to either climb up and over Little Horn Peak or descend Flute's north ridge to the Fluted-Horn saddle and then back to Dry Lakes.
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