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Funky Gold Patina
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3.2 from 5
votes
Routes in Horseshead
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Big D, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Blondie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Breeder's Cup T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Charlie Horse T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Dé - Stud Pony T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Eagle's Beak T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Fall of the Republic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Feeling Loopy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Funky Gold Patina T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Glue Factory T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Goverment Mule T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hippophobia T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Kentucky Derby T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Neighsayer T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Oh Wilbur T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Playing Timmy Sticks T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Pokey's Arete T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Ponyboy Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Preakness T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Sea Biscuit T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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TDS T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | S.McCorkel, K. Strobel, J.Breidt, March 30, 2012 |
| Page Views: | 2,082 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | morkel on May 16, 2012 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023
Details
Update: per Bruce Hildenbrand: the area has been open since 2023.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
P1. This route starts with Eagle's Beak. After about 60 feet of nice thin hands and hands (5.10+), move left - when Eagles's Beak moves right - on a sloping ledge for about 15 feet. After the move left, mount a low angle face with a nice 5.8 crack (described under Sea Biscuit), which leads to a set of anchors for Sea Biscuit. Belay here, or if you don't have rope drag, I recommend continuing to a nice ledge another 60 feet up.
Continue to the large ledge with a section of vertical, golden face via great holds past four bolts, to a copious ledge, and make an anchor (hand size and smaller). A #2 or 3 Camalot fits nicely before the first bolt.
P2 (or 3). Climb a left-leaning hand to finger crack on the north facing wall.
Scramble off to the east, or rappel as for Neighsayer via two, 30m rappels.
Continue to the large ledge with a section of vertical, golden face via great holds past four bolts, to a copious ledge, and make an anchor (hand size and smaller). A #2 or 3 Camalot fits nicely before the first bolt.
P2 (or 3). Climb a left-leaning hand to finger crack on the north facing wall.
Scramble off to the east, or rappel as for Neighsayer via two, 30m rappels.
Location
This is two routes uphill and to the right of Tijuana Donkey Show. TDS has a bolt about 40 feet up. See the photo under Eagle's Beak.
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