PRINT: Rock Climb Frankenfood, Golden

Frankenfood

5.11c, Sport, 120 ft (36 m), 2 pitches,

Avg: 2.5 from 11 votes
FA: unknown
Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > Conspiracy Crag

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!

Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31

Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…

Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…

CCC Raptor Nesting Closure 1 (MM 270, W of Tunnel 1). Photo reconfiguration: Ron Keller.

CCC Raptor Nesting Closure 2 (E of Tunnel 2). In 2016, the closure WAS lifted June 9 for ONLY the 2016 season, per Eric Krause, JeffCo OS Ranger. Photo reconfiguration: Ron Keller.

The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.

Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:

Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves

Access Issue: Private Property - be aware & respectful Details

Per Daniel Dunn, Stewardship Manager, Boulder Climbing Community ((803) 443-8822): this crag is on private property. The landowners are aware of the climbing on their property and continue to allow access for rock climbers. It is critical for long term access that everyone who climbs here is respectful and does their part to keep the crag in good shape. For more information on how to be a good steward, check out the Climber's Pact from Access Fund.

Description

Pitch 1 (10d): climb up into a left-facing corner, over a bulge, then an easy slope to anchors. It is a bit pumpy getting over the bulge, or one can move right onto the arete at this point. The rock is crumbly in places and needs to clean up.

Pitch 2 (11c): head left above the ledge.

Location

This is the first route below and right from the roof alcove.

Per Shirtless Mike: start on a low angle slab and left-facing corner for the first few bolts. The first route is "The Space Between" which currently has dangerous rock quality and needs cleaning.

Protection

P1: 5 bolts to top anchors shared with Martians on Mopeds.
P2: 6 bolts to anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Just below the P1 crux.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Elijah Flenner
Fort Collins, CO

5.11b

Both pitches can easily be done as one pitch albeit with some rope drag. The first pitch takes some stars away from the second, which is pretty good. Oct 14, 2012

Geoff U
Centennial, CO

5.11b

Second pitch is great - 1st is ok, but lots of loose rock on the first still. Jan 11, 2013

Sam Chalkley
Denver, CO

5.11d

2nd pitch is sweet! Definitely do it in 1, having an anchor gets in the way of the opening moves of the 11.

Capps guidebook gives 2nd pitch an 11d rating.... With the way he typically grades steep crimpy climbs, the guys calling it 11b must be stronger than they give themselves credit for! Jul 28, 2021