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Routes in Memorial Day Buttress
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Aggression T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Casual n' Kind T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Dave Anderson Memorial Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2- PG13 |
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Eyebrow T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Graduate School T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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High School Drop Out T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Judas Priest T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Memorial Day Route T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Mouth Variation, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pork Shoulder T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Small Brain T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Tombstone Left T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tombstone Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 20 ft (6 m) |
| FA: | Lynn Wheeler & Jay Andersen in 1983 |
| Page Views: | 991 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Spencer Weiler on Apr 16, 2012 |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Short. This one makes Plumb Line seem like a full 60m pitch. 6-7 finger locks, a few .3 camalots and your on top. Not a gimme, but the length makes it an easy onsight for your ego. Could be bouldered honestly if you feel good about it. I chose not to but its that short. Do a couple laps continuously to actually make it seem like a real climb.
Location
Hike up huge hill to the memorial day buttress. This is the obvious short right leaning finger crack that ends in lots of bushels atop a small ledge. Not hard to find. Can be seen from the road if you look hard enough.
Protection
single set tcu's, small nuts. Completely worthless rusted piece of ___ bolt that should not be used sits above the ledge as a severely not recommended anchor. Build a nest of small gear atop the crack to lower off, or lasso a small bushel(scary?) then when you're finished clean it and downclimb the 5.5 crack to the right.
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