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> Pao de Acucar (Sugarl…
Coringa
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British
Avg: 2.9 from 16
votes
Routes in Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf)
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Waldemar Guimaraes (Waldo) T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Secundo Costa Neto T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Via dos Italianos S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Chamine Stop T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Via do Totem T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Lagartao T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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As de Espadas S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Coringa S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Costao S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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Alfredo Marciel S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Cavalo Louco T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Revolta dos Gravatás T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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| Type: | Sport, 330 ft (100 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Guiseppe Pellegrini, Paulo 'Bruxo' Ferreira, Denise Emmer |
| Page Views: | 4,982 total · 32/month |
| Shared By: | Matt Othmer on Apr 7, 2012 · Updates |
| Admins: | Roberta Zouain, Matt Looby |
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Description
A great short moderate slab climb up the south face of Pao de Acucar. From the summit you can descend or continue up on Costao.
I would recommend bringing a 60 m rope. I brought a 57ish meter rope that was barely long enough for the first pitch.
The route is 2-3 pitches. It's all fairly straightforward 5.6 slab climbing, with a few short vertical moves.
The last two pitches can easily be combined as they are short, but many guiding groups break them up into two pitches since they are a bit tricky, and communication is difficult if done in one pitch.
The last belay is a body belay, or you can tie off a boulder.
I would recommend bringing a 60 m rope. I brought a 57ish meter rope that was barely long enough for the first pitch.
The route is 2-3 pitches. It's all fairly straightforward 5.6 slab climbing, with a few short vertical moves.
The last two pitches can easily be combined as they are short, but many guiding groups break them up into two pitches since they are a bit tricky, and communication is difficult if done in one pitch.
The last belay is a body belay, or you can tie off a boulder.
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