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Bittersweet
5.13a,
Sport, 100 ft (30 m),
Avg: 3.4 from 14
votes
FA: Mark Stevenson (1997)
W Virginia
> New River Gorge…
> Meadow River Gorge
> Upper Meadow
> 4. Third Buttress
Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19
Details
- **NO PARKING SIGNS HAVE BEEN INSTALLED ALONG ROUTE 19 WHERE IT HAS BEEN CUSTOMARY TO PARK FOR MEADOW RIVER CLIMBING AND BOATING ACCESS. THIS MEANS NO PARKING ALONG ROUTE 19 SOUTH, BETWEEN THE BRIDGE AND UNDERWOOD RD.
THERE IS A NEW PARKING LOT ON DIETZ ROAD OFF OF UNDERWOOD ROAD, PLEASE CARPOOL***
Description
Bittersweet is a fun climb that is marred by a manufactured hold between the second and third bolts. Without the addition of this glued on rock the climb would probably be a really nasty 14- or it might not even be possible. Even with the addition of the stone this is still the location of the crux.
Start with 15 feet of roof climbing on sculpted slopers. Clip the second bolt and then blitz the crux swing dyno. Take a really good rest at the third bolt before taking on a second easier crux. The second crux involves some small crimps and a long lock off at near vertical angle. Climb through several more bolts of bizarre rock, some of which is purple. One more hard move awaits you as you clear the final roof. It is kind of bewildering hanging the draw at the roof so stay focused. Fifteen more feet of steep jug hauling takes you to the top of the cliff. Lots of variety on this one. Surprisingly rope drag is not an issue even if you use all short draws.
Location
Far right end of the third buttress. Its the steepest route in the cave.
Protection
11 bolts + anchor
![Alex moving into the steep jugs after crushing the initial boulder problem.]()
[Hide Photo] Alex moving into the steep jugs after crushing the initial boulder problem.
![Two seconds away from punting.]()
[Hide Photo] Two seconds away from punting.
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Denver, CO