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Clown Loach (temporary name)
5.8,
Trad, Sport, 120 ft (36 m),
Avg: 2 from 7
votes
FA: Ken Trout & Jim Jensen, 1973
Colorado
> Golden
> Clear Creek Canyon
> Creek Side
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31 Visit:
jeffco.us/open-space/news/2… Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit:
jeffco.us/open-space/alerts… The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season. Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
Description
There is a line between
Guppy and
Crackside Direct that ascends a black intrusion band and is largely protectable with gear. It was climbed long ago with Ken's explorations back in the days when hexes ruled the Earth. At the time, he did it with his neighbor, they didn't think it was a first ascent and hence didn't name it (sounds familiar, yes, it occurred on
Crackside, too).
You can start this line either from the
Guppy pod angling up and right towards the black intrusion or from the 2 bolt anchor of
Crackside and angling left. Perhaps 30 feet up you can choose left and the tiny, right-facing dihedral or up the blocky black rock. Continue upward protecting using discontinuous features until you get to the finger/thin crack mentioned in
Crackside Direct. You can finish in this thin feature or move a couple feet right on bigger features to gain the leftward traverse past 2 bolts and the semi-hanging belay and anchor for
Guppy.
Rappel 115'.
Location
Protection
Wireds, cams to a #3 Camalot. ~15 slings/quickdraws.
Westminster, Colorado
Colorado