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Clown Loach (temporary name)

5.8, Trad, Sport, 120 ft (36 m),  Avg: 2 from 7 votes
FA: Ken Trout & Jim Jensen, 1973
Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > Creek Side
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

There is a line between Guppy and Crackside Direct that ascends a black intrusion band and is largely protectable with gear. It was climbed long ago with Ken's explorations back in the days when hexes ruled the Earth. At the time, he did it with his neighbor, they didn't think it was a first ascent and hence didn't name it (sounds familiar, yes, it occurred on Crackside, too).

You can start this line either from the Guppy pod angling up and right towards the black intrusion or from the 2 bolt anchor of Crackside and angling left. Perhaps 30 feet up you can choose left and the tiny, right-facing dihedral or up the blocky black rock. Continue upward protecting using discontinuous features until you get to the finger/thin crack mentioned in Crackside Direct. You can finish in this thin feature or move a couple feet right on bigger features to gain the leftward traverse past 2 bolts and the semi-hanging belay and anchor for Guppy.

Rappel 115'.

Location

This is between Guppy and Crackside Direct and follows a black intrusion band.

Protection

Wireds, cams to a #3 Camalot. ~15 slings/quickdraws.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Dave lower down on the pitch.
[Hide Photo] Dave lower down on the pitch.
Dave higher on the pitch.
[Hide Photo] Dave higher on the pitch.
The line follows the black intrusion.
[Hide Photo] The line follows the black intrusion.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Cool, Leo! I haven't explored it, other than looking at it on rappel, but definitely looks a lot more direct than 'Crackside Direct' and a cool feature. I think I was nervous about a loose block halfway on it. Is there one? There is also may be potential for a cool short slabby route to the right of Crackside. Mar 26, 2012
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Darren, there were definitely things I was cautious about pulling outward on, since I had just yanked off a flake at the top of Winterfest. Still, nothing moved except for a few obviously loose rocks that I threw off. I agree that there is potential to the right of Crackside. Mar 26, 2012
Jim T
Colorado
 
[Hide Comment] Saw a piton down low on the route. Then a big flexing hold a little farther, so still some loose stuff. Nov 7, 2020