Clown Loach (temporary name)
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2 from 7 votes
Type: | Trad, Sport, 120 ft (36 m) |
FA: | Ken Trout & Jim Jensen, 1973 |
Page Views: | 2,557 total · 16/month |
Shared By: | Leo Paik on Mar 26, 2012 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
Description
There is a line between Guppy and Crackside Direct that ascends a black intrusion band and is largely protectable with gear. It was climbed long ago with Ken's explorations back in the days when hexes ruled the Earth. At the time, he did it with his neighbor, they didn't think it was a first ascent and hence didn't name it (sounds familiar, yes, it occurred on Crackside, too).
You can start this line either from the Guppy pod angling up and right towards the black intrusion or from the 2 bolt anchor of Crackside and angling left. Perhaps 30 feet up you can choose left and the tiny, right-facing dihedral or up the blocky black rock. Continue upward protecting using discontinuous features until you get to the finger/thin crack mentioned in Crackside Direct. You can finish in this thin feature or move a couple feet right on bigger features to gain the leftward traverse past 2 bolts and the semi-hanging belay and anchor for Guppy.
Rappel 115'.
You can start this line either from the Guppy pod angling up and right towards the black intrusion or from the 2 bolt anchor of Crackside and angling left. Perhaps 30 feet up you can choose left and the tiny, right-facing dihedral or up the blocky black rock. Continue upward protecting using discontinuous features until you get to the finger/thin crack mentioned in Crackside Direct. You can finish in this thin feature or move a couple feet right on bigger features to gain the leftward traverse past 2 bolts and the semi-hanging belay and anchor for Guppy.
Rappel 115'.
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