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Routes in 08: Two Pines Buttress
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Big Deal T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Brother Without a Brain TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Chlorosis T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Claustrophilia T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Crosstown Traffic T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dyspepsia T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Full Stop T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Grotto, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Hypoglycemia T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Jolly Gendarme T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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L. S. D. T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Moderation T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Mouse Tracks T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mouse Trap TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Mouse's Misery T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Mouse's Tail T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Pussy Galore's Flying Circus T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rack, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Reprieve TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Schizophrenia T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Solar Eclipse T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Thoroughfare T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Touch & Go T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Vacillation T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 65 ft (20 m) |
| FA: | ??? |
| Page Views: | 1,351 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Burton Lindquist on Mar 26, 2012 |
| Admins: | Ian Cotter-Brown, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Ben Strobel, Kyle Harding |
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Description
Moderate face between the route "Dyspepsia" on the left and "Brother Without a Brain" on the right. Climb the easy lower corner of the route "Moderation" but move up and left to the top of the blocks and flake on the left. Climb off the upper most flake onto the face and follow steep slab face on edges and flakes directly to the lone pine tree at the top.
Location
Moderate face between the route "Dyspepsia" on the left and "Brother Without a Brain" on the right. Climb the easy lower corner of the route "Moderation" but move up and left to the top of the blocks and flake on the left. Climb off the upper most flake onto the face and follow steep slab face on edges and flakes directly to the lone pine tree at the top.
Protection
This is a sketchy lead for gear but does have just barely adequite pro provided you have small stoppers and ball nuts. There is finger size cam placement at you knees on the right at the starting moves off the flake. You will get a small Ballnut placement above this. Next is a small stopper in good fairly deep slot. Above that are a sketchy small TCU placement in shallow horizontal and a small shallow stopper placement. Next is a nice deep large Ballnut at the crux move and small downward placed TCU behind a shallow flake to finish off the hard stuff. Great sketchy lead for the adventurous.
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