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Buttress
5.9 R,
Trad, TR, 80 ft (24 m),
Avg: 2.2 from 26
votes
FA: Hugo Stadmuller and John Porter, 1963
Massachusetts
> Central, MA
> Crow Hill & Leo…
> Crow Hill
> 4. The Buttress
Description
The route gets progressively harder the higher you climb. I've only been up it about halfway. The lower part of the route is slightly overhung but with plenty of holds and good feet. The holds get thinner as you climb up.
Location
The route starts about 15 feet to the right of the corner where Buttress wall meets Fisherman's Wall, where "Tarzan" and "Fool on the Hill" routes start.
Climb up a jagged boulder. Just above the boulder, the rock face is light with some rusty, horizontal streaks. There is a shallow dihedral at your left. Climb it and keep going up perhaps 15 feet. Then veer right perhaps 5-10 feet (this is where I stopped, so the rest is hearsay), then veer left to get to the ledge.
This info was garnered from Boston Rocks 2nd edition and also Rock Climbing New England guidebook. There's a 2-bolt chain anchor on the ledge, used for both Fool on a Hill and Buttress. The route continues up past a bolt, but it's reported that the climb becomes 5.10 from here and has poor protection, hence the R rating.
[Hide Photo] Christopher Lane coming of the ledge at Buttress.
[Hide Photo] Christopher Lane on the starting ledge at Buttress.
[Hide Photo] Christopher Lane heading onto Buttress from the ledge at Tarzan.
[Hide Photo] Dragons puzzling out how to continue up Buttress.
[Hide Photo] At the bottom of the photo you see the rusty horizontal streaks in the rock and the shallow dihedral, just above the big block (not shown) at the base of the climb. The route meanders. It may be th…
[Hide Comment] The Buttress to the chains is a fine route at 5.8+ with G protection. Stepping up to gain the ramp to the Chimney from the right side of the ledge with the chains is definitely R rated with ankle breaking potential. The bolt is poorly placed and should be 2 & 1/2 feet higher. I have only successfully climbed to the ramp this way on top rope. I have gone up to lead climb to the ramp several times over the years but always backed off. I would rate the moves 5.9+ with definite ledge impact if you blow the moves.
May 29, 2012
[Hide Comment] One of my favorite routes at Crow Hill. Was surprised to see it only get 2 stars on here. I find it easier than most of the 5.8 climbs here.
Apr 5, 2013
[Hide Comment] Protection is adequate for a safe lead to the chains. There are several excellent horizontals for small cams, with decent stances for making the placement. Camp Tri-Cams work great on this route!
Jun 10, 2013
[Hide Comment] The bolt is up and right from the chains. I think it's more or less in the right spot. Easy to clip it from the ledge, and then there's a good horizontal where a good gear can be placed. Would be possible to safely take here and rest up. Climbing above the gear and onto the sloping ledge above felt pretty R-rated because of the ledge below.
Jul 22, 2019
[Hide Comment] Linked it to Lizards Head as a toprope. Because of the rope, I went left from the chains instead going right over the 3rd bolt that protects the 10ish move. It was the crux of the whole route as the crimps are super tiny and then you have to throw for slopers once you are above the crimps - going left felt hard 11 and very thin and technical. Lizards Head was a breeze in comparison.
Sep 14, 2021
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Leominster, MA
Leominster, MA
Northfield, NH