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Routes in 4. The Buttress
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Buttress T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Chimney, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Fool on a Hill T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Las Cosas Son Como Son T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Lizard's Head T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Nose, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Watusi T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Hugo Stadmuller and John Porter, 1963 |
| Page Views: | 3,299 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | dragons on Mar 18, 2012 |
| Admins: | Old Timer, jim.dangle, Joe M |
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Description
The route gets progressively harder the higher you climb. I've only been up it about halfway. The lower part of the route is slightly overhung but with plenty of holds and good feet. The holds get thinner as you climb up.
Location
The route starts about 15 feet to the right of the corner where Buttress wall meets Fisherman's Wall, where "Tarzan" and "Fool on the Hill" routes start.
Climb up a jagged boulder. Just above the boulder, the rock face is light with some rusty, horizontal streaks. There is a shallow dihedral at your left. Climb it and keep going up perhaps 15 feet. Then veer right perhaps 5-10 feet (this is where I stopped, so the rest is hearsay), then veer left to get to the ledge.
This info was garnered from Boston Rocks 2nd edition and also Rock Climbing New England guidebook. There's a 2-bolt chain anchor on the ledge, used for both Fool on a Hill and Buttress. The route continues up past a bolt, but it's reported that the climb becomes 5.10 from here and has poor protection, hence the R rating.
Climb up a jagged boulder. Just above the boulder, the rock face is light with some rusty, horizontal streaks. There is a shallow dihedral at your left. Climb it and keep going up perhaps 15 feet. Then veer right perhaps 5-10 feet (this is where I stopped, so the rest is hearsay), then veer left to get to the ledge.
This info was garnered from Boston Rocks 2nd edition and also Rock Climbing New England guidebook. There's a 2-bolt chain anchor on the ledge, used for both Fool on a Hill and Buttress. The route continues up past a bolt, but it's reported that the climb becomes 5.10 from here and has poor protection, hence the R rating.
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