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W Virginia
> New River Gorge…
> Meadow River Gorge
> Upper Meadow
> 1. First Buttress
Creature
5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 3.7 from 88
votes
Routes in 1. First Buttress
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Vignette S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Typical Situation S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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West Virginia Two-Step S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Creature S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Floaters S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Ben Dunne T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lady Punk S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Cross-Eyed and Blind S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Lamda S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Push S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Boomerang S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Black Crack T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Corner Pocket S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Eye of Mordor S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Toymaker S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Superman S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Pinocchio S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Andoullie S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sausage S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Being Dani Andrada S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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You, Watch the Clocks! S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Craig Lewis 2003 |
| Page Views: | 5,543 total · 35/month |
| Shared By: | Fred Gomez on Mar 18, 2012 · Updates |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19
Details
- **NO PARKING SIGNS HAVE BEEN INSTALLED ALONG ROUTE 19 WHERE IT HAS BEEN CUSTOMARY TO PARK FOR MEADOW RIVER CLIMBING AND BOATING ACCESS. THIS MEANS NO PARKING ALONG ROUTE 19 SOUTH, BETWEEN THE BRIDGE AND UNDERWOOD RD.
Description
Creature could possibly be the finest route at the first buttress. It sits unassumingly around the left side of the buttress, hidden in the shadows of the more prominent routes on the front side. Its west facing orientation keeps it shady until early in the afternoon.
Climb a finger crack to a ledge 20 feet off the ground. Take care executing the next moves because a fall would probably land you on the ledge. A technical move awaits you immediately after clipping the first bolt. The next couple bolts worth of climbing is easier, and takes you to the perplexing intro moves to the crux. Do a couple insecure lie back moves and then fall right into a big block. Falling slightly backwards and slapping the big block, while in the iron cross position, is definitely one of the more memorable moves at the Gorge.
The hardest moves come right after the fourth bolt. There are two distinct options here; either dyno or use another set of holds to make a long lock off move. Fun lie backing on good holds is your reward for completing the crux.
Climb a finger crack to a ledge 20 feet off the ground. Take care executing the next moves because a fall would probably land you on the ledge. A technical move awaits you immediately after clipping the first bolt. The next couple bolts worth of climbing is easier, and takes you to the perplexing intro moves to the crux. Do a couple insecure lie back moves and then fall right into a big block. Falling slightly backwards and slapping the big block, while in the iron cross position, is definitely one of the more memorable moves at the Gorge.
The hardest moves come right after the fourth bolt. There are two distinct options here; either dyno or use another set of holds to make a long lock off move. Fun lie backing on good holds is your reward for completing the crux.
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