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W Virginia
> New River Gorge…
> Meadow River Gorge
> Upper Meadow
> 1. First Buttress
Toymaker
5.13a YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E6 6c British
Avg: 3.1 from 15
votes
Routes in 1. First Buttress
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Vignette S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Typical Situation S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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West Virginia Two-Step S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Creature S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Floaters S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Ben Dunne T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lady Punk S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Cross-Eyed and Blind S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Lamda S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Push S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Boomerang S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Black Crack T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Corner Pocket S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Eye of Mordor S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Toymaker S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Superman S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Pinocchio S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Andoullie S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sausage S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Being Dani Andrada S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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You, Watch the Clocks! S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Mark Stevenson 2001. Equipper Doug Reed 1996 |
| Page Views: | 1,915 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Fred Gomez on Mar 4, 2012 · Updates |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19
Details
- **NO PARKING SIGNS HAVE BEEN INSTALLED ALONG ROUTE 19 WHERE IT HAS BEEN CUSTOMARY TO PARK FOR MEADOW RIVER CLIMBING AND BOATING ACCESS. THIS MEANS NO PARKING ALONG ROUTE 19 SOUTH, BETWEEN THE BRIDGE AND UNDERWOOD RD.
Description
Toymaker differs a little in character from its neighboring 13a's. Instead of being an endurance challenge like the others, it features a single fierce boulder problem at 2/3 height.
Begin by climbing a steep section to the first bolt. After the first bolt negotiate an off width while stemming through a dihedral. Traverse 10 feet to avoid an impossible roof and then get ready for some straight forward climbing. For the next 15 feet the rock is steep and the holds alternate from square cut edges to slopers.
A really good rest awaits you before the crux boulder problem. The crux sequence is five moves long and culminates with a massive lunge to a good edge. A few more long reaches take you to a rest. The route finishes with a couple long lock offs between small crimps.
Often times a stream of water runs down the wall past the second bolt. Don't let this deter you from trying the route. Your rope will stay dry and you don't need to use any of the wet foot holds.
I avoided getting on this route because I thought the third bolt might have been missing. It is there, look hard and you'll see it camouflaged in the roof.
Begin by climbing a steep section to the first bolt. After the first bolt negotiate an off width while stemming through a dihedral. Traverse 10 feet to avoid an impossible roof and then get ready for some straight forward climbing. For the next 15 feet the rock is steep and the holds alternate from square cut edges to slopers.
A really good rest awaits you before the crux boulder problem. The crux sequence is five moves long and culminates with a massive lunge to a good edge. A few more long reaches take you to a rest. The route finishes with a couple long lock offs between small crimps.
Often times a stream of water runs down the wall past the second bolt. Don't let this deter you from trying the route. Your rope will stay dry and you don't need to use any of the wet foot holds.
I avoided getting on this route because I thought the third bolt might have been missing. It is there, look hard and you'll see it camouflaged in the roof.
4 Comments