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Don't Pro the Flake Bro

5.12b PG13, Trad, Sport, 190 ft (58 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 3.3 from 7 votes
FA: Steve Curtis, 2008
Virginia > Shenandoah & NW… > Shenandoah NP > Old Rag > Reflector Oven

Description

Best done in 2 pitches. Start at bolt 10 feet right of Return to Sickbay. Climb past large flake - pro to the left if you pro at all - and climb line of bolts. Difficulty rises as you ascend. Belay at the upper anchors of Sickbay. 2nd pitch begins with bolt and then moves right to arching crack. Move past roof, clip bolt, climb either the crack to the right or step left for another bolt. Beautiful belay spot at the top of the slab.

Note to shorter climbers: upper section contains a very reachy 5.11 move.

Location

10 feet right of Return to Sickbay.

Be very careful on the descent. Rapping from the top with 60 meter rope is pretty sketchy - you might get there depending on rope stretch. A tree 20 feet above the Sickbay anchors can be used as an intermediate station if need be.

Protection

9 bolts, Aliens, RPs, Nuts and 1 Red BD cam.

Upper pitch contains short section of 5.10 R climbing but very manageable if you can climb the lower pitch.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Taken from the anchors on Report to Sickbay
[Hide Photo] Taken from the anchors on Report to Sickbay
Route photo of Don't Pro the Flake Bro
[Hide Photo] Route photo of Don't Pro the Flake Bro

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jon Melly
Washington D.C.
 
[Hide Comment] climbed this as one pitch. In one push it is epic! Nov 8, 2016
Will Alford
  5.12b PG13
[Hide Comment] Sent this today! Such a great climb! Can’t recommend it enough!! Apr 16, 2019
OldRag Rocks
Rockville, MD
  5.12a/b
[Hide Comment] Rad to see some more sends! This climb is definitely one of Old Rag's best! Aug 1, 2019