Machine Gun aka Pin Scars
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Type: | Trad, TR, 30 ft (9 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 2,521 total · 16/month |
Shared By: | Tristan Burnham on Feb 3, 2012 |
Admins: | Chris Owen, jt512, Nicole Wiesenthal, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Stoney Point sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many gyms in the area if you need a fix!
Description
This is kinda like 3 Pigs, but longer. Just follow the pin scars up. You can pinch some of them too. It can be pumppy, but it turns to a slab towards the top. Another problem is there are so many holes so keep bumping up and switch hands until you find the better ones.
Protection
You could trad lead this with some small gear. C4's are too big for most of the holes. You'd have to use master cams or TCUs and tri cams.
To set up a TR, head left and up to the top. You can put a hex behind a boulder and use some long webbing. There is also a place right by the lip for some cams in a horizontal crack and there is a stud off to the side you can cinch off.
To set up a TR, head left and up to the top. You can put a hex behind a boulder and use some long webbing. There is also a place right by the lip for some cams in a horizontal crack and there is a stud off to the side you can cinch off.
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