PRINT: Rock Climb Dillard Arete, 1. Southern Mountains Region

Dillard Arete

5.12b, Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches,

Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: Andrew Mcdowell, Nathan Brown 2011
N Carolina > 1. Southern Mou… > Laurel Knob

Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags Details

The CCC has created the list linked below of accessible and inaccessible climbing areas with some caveats. If you decide to head out for a day of climbing, please do not attempt to go to those marked ‘inaccessible’. Please note that all areas in WNC will have extensive tree damage and if you head out, use extra caution for all the trees above, especially on a windy day. Rock fall potential is also highest after a big weather event. Please use extra caution while climbing and prepare to self rescue if injured. Injury response time will be greatly limited for any injury currently, especially for a remote injury. Cell service is limited in all areas. Parking at accessible crags in the WNC/ Upstate SC region will likely be challenging. If the parking lot is full, go to a different area and do not park illegally or in a road. Make a plan B before leaving your house. Expect road detours on the way to the crag. NCdrive.gov updates road closures. Once you get to the crag, expect many trees blocking access trails and of course, come volunteer with the CCC to help us bring our climbing areas back!

carolinaclimbers.org/conten…

Access Issue: Falcon Closure 2024 Details

Laurel Knob Jan 15- Aug 14: All routes in the Dillard Canyon are closed to climbing during this period.

carolinaclimbers.org/conten…

Description

This route (generally) climbs the arete of the popular "Hypocrites Corner". It involves 3 pitches of fairly hard and exposed climbing, and should be on the tick list of the arete aficionado.

I must credit Andrew for having put the final bit of work into finishing this route after we abandoned it at the end of last season. He also did the redpoint of all 3 pitches of this one.

P-1
There used to be 2 starts, a left one and a right one. The left one is now the start for "Clippidy Doodah". The right one is the standard way - it starts by standing in a rhodo branch and climbing up and slightly right on slab past a couple bolts to easier ground and a 3rd bolt. Move up and further right past a 4th bolt and over to the arete and some medium cams. Continue up the excellent arete past several more bolts to the great belay ledge and a bolted anchor.

P-2
Climb the obvious bolted line and then make the awkward crux moves rightward to large holds and a larger cam. Continue up and left on jugs past more gear, a bolt, and a slung horn to a stance. Make some final slabby moves up to the ledge and belay on bolts.

P-3
Move belayer to the right a little. Traverse up and right past 2 bolts to a short dihedral with gear. Step right onto the short arete past a couple bolts and the crux to easier ground. Continue up easier ground past a bolt and med cams to the top.

Location

Climbs the arete left of Hypocrtites Corner. Starts down and left of the actual arete due to a blank start, but traverses onto it at about 1/3 height.

Protection

normal sized rack up to #4 camelot (for 2nd pitch)

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Updated Topo

Pitch 1 arete

The first pitch is visible to the right of the bushy line.

First pitch of Dillard Arete.

The upper 3/4 of the route, just above where the first pitch traverses in.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Andrew McDowell

5.12b PG13

I will also add that the route can be rapelled with a single 60m rope if one person is willing to take the risk of rappelling off a single 1/2" bolt about 40 feet off the ground (the 5th bolt). A single 60m barely worked for rappelling P2 and P3 (watch and tie knots in ends of rope!). This route is really unique for LK with the overhanging climbing on steep jugs in addition to some stellar pure arete climbing. Jan 26, 2012

Andrew McDowell

5.12b PG13

I repeated the route recently and I have a few more comments. P1 has thin cruxes in which one's feet are several feet above bolts and (relatively) easy longer runouts, especially at the start of that pitch. P2 is fun jugs (although sometimes not the best rock quality) with a tricky crux but there is a half inch bolt right at the crux. The crux of p3 is a tricky and very weird arete liebacking boulder problem that may be like v4+ or v5 giving the 12b grade, but one could aid or hangdog through it easily. This crux could be harder for someone shorter than around 5' 10". The arete on P3 seemed pretty sharp and I recall having concerns of potential for cutting the lead rope if a weird unexpected swinging fall was taken while liebacking the arete or something. Although I never did, I recall thinking it might be a good idea to tie into double single ropes on that pitch for that reason. Apr 21, 2012

Daniel Dunn
Chattanooga, TN

Striking line! P2 suffers from a lot of kitty litter quality rock. Decided to bail after a few holds broke Feb 6, 2017