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New Hampshire
> NH Ice & Mixed
> - Crawford Notc…
> 6. Mt Willard…
> 05. E Face - Upper
The Cleft
WI2+
Avg: 3 from 129
votes
Routes in 05. East Face - Upper
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"Just Left of Rear Window" WI3+ |
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A Woman's Right to Choose S WI4- M6 |
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Chivalry T WI5+ M6 |
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Cleft, The WI2+ |
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Damsel in Distress 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c WI4 M6- |
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Dial M for Murder S WI4+ M8 |
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Dial N for Nonsense T M10- |
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East Face Slab WI3 |
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East Face Slab Right WI3+ |
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Gusher, The M6 |
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Out of Touch WI5 |
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Read Between The Lines T WI4 |
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Rear Window WI4 |
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Spring Fling T WI6 M5-6 PG13 |
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Unknown Slab WI3+ |
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Upper Hitchcock Gully T WI3- |
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| Type: | Ice, 210 ft (64 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 9,915 total · 63/month |
| Shared By: | Paul Rago on Jan 14, 2012 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Avoid walking on the train tracks whenever possible.
Details
The Conway Scenic Railroad will be active in Crawford Notch this winter. It is critically important for climbers to avoid walking on the train tracks whenever possible. Please do not leave packs, gear, or ropes on or near the rails, and avoid belaying near the tracks. Be prepared for trains to pass at any time, all winter.
The right of way for the railroad extends 50 feet on either side of the tracks, so while walking next to the tracks is likely safer, from the point of view of the railway it does not necessarily provide a solution. Ideally climbers should avoid being near the tracks whenever possible. We're requesting that climbers use alternative approach trails when it makes sense, such as in the case of the Frankenstein Cliff trail. If you do need to use the tracks, we want people to be aware of the situation, and to try not to spend excess time on them.
The right of way for the railroad extends 50 feet on either side of the tracks, so while walking next to the tracks is likely safer, from the point of view of the railway it does not necessarily provide a solution. Ideally climbers should avoid being near the tracks whenever possible. We're requesting that climbers use alternative approach trails when it makes sense, such as in the case of the Frankenstein Cliff trail. If you do need to use the tracks, we want people to be aware of the situation, and to try not to spend excess time on them.
Description
A very unique geological feature, this route ascends a deep slot with several easy-moderate ice bulges for a full 60m. Climb in 1-2 pitches.
The climbing isn't really anything special but the route absolutely is for the cool slot.
Makes for a nice end of the day climb after doing other area climbs.
The climbing isn't really anything special but the route absolutely is for the cool slot.
Makes for a nice end of the day climb after doing other area climbs.
Location
Located climber's right of East Face Slab Right about 100m.
Climb Left Hand Monkey Wrench or lower Hitchcock Gully and traverse right under East Face Right and continue thru the woods under the cliff band until you see a very deep gash in the cliff.
Either do a full-length rap (60m just makes it, 70m better) or head straight up into the woods on a climber's path* to intersect the Mt. Willard Trail: take a left to the summit and enjoy the views, or a right down the easy Trail to be back at your car in ~20 minutes.
Climb Left Hand Monkey Wrench or lower Hitchcock Gully and traverse right under East Face Right and continue thru the woods under the cliff band until you see a very deep gash in the cliff.
Either do a full-length rap (60m just makes it, 70m better) or head straight up into the woods on a climber's path* to intersect the Mt. Willard Trail: take a left to the summit and enjoy the views, or a right down the easy Trail to be back at your car in ~20 minutes.
- Should you be unfortunate enough to be the first (or first after a big snowfall) to break trail on this route the following may be of help: Exit climber's left from the Cleft, go a few feet left, then up for 40-50 ft and keep an eye for orange blazes (only visible going uphill) and occasional orange tape. The first 1/3 of the path generally goes up-and-left, then swings around to the right about 1/2 way and then levels off. In general, if you are faced with totally impenetrable brush, you are off route; the path really isn't that bad and lots of folk have been using it. About 5-10 min to the Mt Willard Trail.
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