7/2021: Access in this area has always been nebulous, but recently landowners have made clear that they want NO visitors in the area. Please refrain from visiting any of the crags on the Southside of the Meadow, including those along Glade Creek (Mud Hueco) and Orange Wall. This includes drivers, cyclists, ATVers, and climbers. Please climb at another crag.
Description
Really fun mixed climb. Climb through steep, sequential pockets, to a technical slab, until you are established beneath the obvious body-length roof crack. Fire through the crack, over the lip, and then cruise up bomber jugs to the anchors.
Location
As you walk downstream just past Depth Charge, the crag kicks into a cave/alcove, and turns 90 degrees to face you. This is the only roof crack on this section.
Protection
Three bolts at the beginning, then gear, maybe one of each size from .3 to 3 camalots. Use slings, as there is high potential for rope drag in the roof crack.
[Hide Photo] Camhead on Stolen Tiggers, 12b, Meadow River, NRG, WV, Spring 2009. This was a great "almost onsight, " I flubbed the beginning bouldery sequence, but fired the "crux" roof first go. Photo by Dan…
[Hide Comment] (more details that I am not putting in the description, so as not to ruin any onsights)
This is a really fun route, deserving of more than the two stars that Mikey gives it in the NRG guidebook. For gear, I placed a great horizontal, runnered 3 camalot at the back of the roof. In the actual roof crack, it looks like you want to put a hand-sized piece in the hand-sized pod midway through the roof. However, if you do this, you will not have anywhere to put your hands. There is actually a really good blue tcu or .3 camalot that you can slide in just behind the pod.
Pulling the roof crack is one of the coolest sequences I've done; it actually climbs a lot like videos I have seen of Fiddler on the Roof at Fremont Canyon, except you are working with a hand jam instead of a tips lock.
Some might think this is a bit soft at the grade.
Jan 13, 2012
Access Issue: SOUTH SIDE CRAGS ARE CLOSED
Details
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Vandalia, Appalachia
This is a really fun route, deserving of more than the two stars that Mikey gives it in the NRG guidebook. For gear, I placed a great horizontal, runnered 3 camalot at the back of the roof. In the actual roof crack, it looks like you want to put a hand-sized piece in the hand-sized pod midway through the roof. However, if you do this, you will not have anywhere to put your hands. There is actually a really good blue tcu or .3 camalot that you can slide in just behind the pod.
Pulling the roof crack is one of the coolest sequences I've done; it actually climbs a lot like videos I have seen of Fiddler on the Roof at Fremont Canyon, except you are working with a hand jam instead of a tips lock.
Some might think this is a bit soft at the grade. Jan 13, 2012