All Locations > Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > (11) Juniper Ca… > Rose Tower

One-Armed Bandit

Name: One-Armed Bandit
Rating: 2.3

5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British

Routes in Rose Tower

L › R R › L A › Z

	Questionable Foundation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
	Canola Crack - Left T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Canola Crack - Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Jaws II T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	One-Armed Bandit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	[Redacted] T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Brother Bill's Great Thrill T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Olive Oil T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Rose Tower - Original Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Homeopathy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

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Type:	Trad, 490 ft (148 m), 5 pitches, Grade III
FA:	Larry Hamilton, Tom Kaufman. March 1976
Page Views:	5,512 total · 34/month
Shared By:	Matt Kuehl on Jan 11, 2012 · Updates
Admins:	Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).

Description

An enjoyable route that is a little more involved than Olive Oil. Expect ocassionaly poor protection and maybe some fragile rock.

Pitch 1 - 70' 5.7 Climb a left-facing corner to the first bushy ledge, traverse right along the ledge and belay. This pitch is short.

Pitch 2 - 70' 5.7 Climb onto the top of the pillar, zig zagging up ramp until it is possible to trend up and right across the face and belay at a bolted anchor or higher above the big corner.

Pitch 3 - 80' 5.7 Climb the crack above to a belay in the base of a loose chimney. Bolted anchor at start of chimney.

Pitch 4 - 140' 5.7 Continue up the chimney, and when it opens up climb the right facing corner above and the face to its right to reach a belay.

Pitch 5 - 110' 5.7 Climb the corner above to a large ledge. Scramble up and right finishing at the top of Olive Oil.

Location

100 yards up the gully from Olive Oil is a brown left facing corner. Just to the left is a short steep right-facing corner formed by the right side of a small buttress/pillar. The route starts 50 yards further up the gully from this feature and is in the corner formed by the left side the pillar.