Type: Trad, Sport, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,680 total · 17/month
Shared By: Dan 60D5H411 on Jan 10, 2012
Admins: Jason Halladay, Luke Bertelsen, Loren P

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

A stunning line that diagonals up and right across the south face of Sourloti. Expect consistent climbing with thought-provoking cruxes, good face sequences and even sections of stemming in long water grooves. All cruxes are well protected by Meteora standards but it would still be "unadvisable" to fall during certain traversing sections. Bolt counts below are from memory and should be taken with a grain of salt (or a swig of Ouzo)

P1(5.3): From the shared start at the base of the south face, traverse left and up across a band of exceptionally large cobbles. 1 bolt, 130 ft.

P2(5.9): Pull a small roof, angle up and right past a short crux. 4 bolts, 130 ft.

P3(5.10): Trend up and right towards a water groove, where the route merges with Linie des Fallenden Tropfens. Follow this groove (crux) up to a two-bolt belay. 4 bolts, 160 ft.

P4(5.9): Leave the groove, following an upward, rightward direction. 8 bolts, 110 ft.

P5(5.9+): Cross over Sophocles aiming for engaging stemming in a short, black groove. Before reaching the top of this groove, traverse 5 ft to the right for the proper belay. Awesome pitch! 5 bolts, 110 ft.

P6(5.6): Move right to a bolt and continue up easier ground. Although not too technical, the top of this pitch is very runout on vegetated cobbles. There are opportunities on this pitch to place a few nuts and a couple of natural threads. If you feel inclined to use the threads, be sure to bring extra cords...the existing tat is in need of replacement. 1 bolt, 150 ft.

Location Suggest change

Follow the Sourloti directions for the shared, south face start and east face rappel descent.

Protection Suggest change

12 draws and additional long runners to alleviate rope drag, 2 ropes, optional set of medium/large nuts and cord for the last pitch.

Photos

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