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Cannibals

5.12d, Sport, 75 ft (23 m),  Avg: 3.9 from 43 votes
FA: Scott Frye
California > Lake Tahoe > I-80 Corridor > Donner Summit > Snowshed Wall > E Face > 4. Cannibals Gully

Description

A technical masterpiece of face-climbing wizardry exemplifying the best Donner has to offer. This is the first route in the Cannibals Gully to the right of the "Little Feat" arete. Work up into a shallow right-facing dihedral, then follow the left trending panel on a series of thin liebacks and underclings. Tackle the thuggish, devious boulder problem with seemingly nonexistent feet which then deposits you at a "thank god" jug for recovery at half heighth. The upper face challenges you with a series of small crimps, side pulls, small pinches and finally the infamous "peanut," none of which will do you much good unless you deduce the footwork trickery.

Hard for the grade.

Location

Among the east face climbs just to the right of the "Little Feat" arete in the Cannibals Gully.

Protection

About 8 quickdraws and 2 for the anchors

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

James shaking out at the midway rest on a warm June day
[Hide Photo] James shaking out at the midway rest on a warm June day
Don Welsh on the second ascent of Scott Frye's Cannibals circa 1988 check out the Dolomite shoes
[Hide Photo] Don Welsh on the second ascent of Scott Frye's Cannibals circa 1988 check out the Dolomite shoes
Cannibal cruiser
[Hide Photo] Cannibal cruiser
hungry for cannibals? -> undercling things
[Hide Photo] hungry for cannibals? -> undercling things
In the moves right before the crux, photo by Sarah Tomlinson
[Hide Photo] In the moves right before the crux, photo by Sarah Tomlinson
ryan displaying proper L-beta
[Hide Photo] ryan displaying proper L-beta
jeff on the lieback
[Hide Photo] jeff on the lieback

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

peachy spohn
Portland
 
[Hide Comment] An amazing route. The "Corner of Hell" is the hardest part, but the peanut at the top is a heart breaker! Definitely harder than 12d, but I guess you got to go with the flow. Aug 25, 2012
J. Albers
Colorado
[Hide Comment] ^^^^^ "Harder than 12d"

Indeed all the locals know full well that Cannibals is 5.13, but they will all nevertheless state to you in person that it is 12d with a *wink, wink*....tradition I guess. This includes Mr. Eison who entered the route (and broke a good foothold while running laps on the route) and my friend, Mr. Kennedy (aka Sergeant Sandbag) who is a longtime local. I think most routes put up by Mr. Frye are graded as "Scott Frye 5.xx" with everyone knowing that it is code for "the route is hard for the grade". Nov 30, 2012
Rob Eison
Denver, CO
  5.12d
[Hide Comment] Guilty as charged on all counts! I succumbed to the brainwashing as well. I bet Russ is still grumbling about the foot chip... Dec 6, 2012
RyanPaul
[Hide Comment] Loaded with hard climbing from the ground to the top. My vote for the best sport route anywhere. My wife was thrilled to belay my final attempt because she new that I would finally be done spending so much time with a four year mistress who occupied so much of my time, thoughts, and passion. Ruthless at 12.d but oh so sweet that it will always remain so! Aug 5, 2013
peachy spohn
Portland
 
[Hide Comment] Just as amazing as I remember and What a great climb. It was colder than last August and the holds were much tackier! Aug 31, 2013
Khick
Reno
[Hide Comment] Please don't use red colored chalk to tick holds. It leaves the rock red after brushing. Don't get too carried away with ticks in general. 8 tick marks on the final horizontal is a bit overkill. Gotta leave them climbs pretty! Sep 14, 2016
Ys Brand
Calgary, AB
  5.13a
[Hide Comment] Jackie with the master beta: vimeo.com/288990632 Jun 30, 2019