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Routes in South Star Wall
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A Steep Climb Named Desire S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Ali S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Bronco S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Bucko S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Calmer Than You Are T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cookie Mix S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cookie Monster S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Daddy's Little Secret (A.K.A. Twenty Feet From Stardom) T 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b PG13 |
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Dilletante S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Father's Day T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Juggernut, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Just Add Water (aka Cookie Dough) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Megalomania S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Moon and Antarctica, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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On The Outskirts Of Hope S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Over The Line S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Parasite S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Puma S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Slim Pickens (aka Pot Licker) S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Space Cadet S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Star Wars Crack T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Taste The Pain S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Time Warp (since broken) S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Vernalagnia S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Warp Factor S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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| Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Hidetaka Suzuki 1988 |
| Page Views: | 5,437 total · 35/month |
| Shared By: | Rob Eison on Dec 23, 2011 · Updates |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Ky Bishop, Colby Wangler, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
To the right of Cookie Mix is the start for a number of route variations, the best of which is Bronco, an incredibly thuggish but stellar 12d. Work into the awkward, slightly overhanging left-facing dihedral and follow along the right-trending series of overlapping roofs until you encounter a large downward pointing flake. Muscle up and to the right of this and finagle a knee bar rest in an obvious pod before tackling the dramatic undercling traverse beneath the huge roof. Pull up and right in the break as you join the headwall finish for A Steep Climb Named Desire.
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