Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
FA: | Tim Schlachter, Chuck Keller, Steve Faulkner 9/1991. |
Page Views: | 4,437 total · 27/month |
Shared By: | Jim Dinan on Dec 10, 2011 · Updates |
Admins: | Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek |
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Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Description
An all-around pleasant climb. Jam, stem, and jug haul your way through a pleasant crack climb for 60 feet until you reach a few seemingly intimidating roof/ledges. Ignore the instinct to bury your head in the crack and identify good feet that are all around. Proceed on up to where the crack flares and choose between equally good chimney and stemming options. Sling a couple trees and enjoy a great view.
Location
Follow the approach trail and head right after a large boulder on your right. Don't bother scrambling up here, it's much easier to walk around. Proceed a few hundred feet along the wall to locate this right-facing dihedral. When you're at the route, there will be a good-sized open cave to your right.
Protection
The crack will take thin/finger-sized gear deep-in toward the bottom of the route. This gets harder to find as you go up and there are many good fist-sized placements. Bring some #2 Camalots and plenty of #3s. Don't ignore the horizontals, as there is also some good gear outside the crack. Big pro (#4-#6 Camalots) is helpful for the wide section at the top. Two of #5 or #6 is great here, but one piece will get you through and add a little excitement.
After you exit the wide section and pass a dead-looking tree on your left, there is a medium-sized tree ahead and 15 feet above this, a larger tree at the top-out. A 70m rope will get you down from the larger tree on top.
After you exit the wide section and pass a dead-looking tree on your left, there is a medium-sized tree ahead and 15 feet above this, a larger tree at the top-out. A 70m rope will get you down from the larger tree on top.
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