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Routes in Cereal Buttress
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Bee Tree T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Born Again S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Breakfast of Champions T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Call of the Wild T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Capt Crunch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Doug Reed Solo TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Faith Based Initiative T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Frankenberry T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Frosted Flake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Fruit Loops T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Good Samaritans T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Granola T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Green Eggs and Ham S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Hungry Jack T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Inner Peace T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Inner Peace Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Jack Be Nimble S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mennonite Surf Party S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Mid-Life Crisis T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Name Unknown S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Name Unknown (5.4) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Name Unknown (5.8 R/X) TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Obamanation T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Petrified Frog T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Sea Wolf T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Shredded Wheat T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Unknown 5.8 (splitter hand crack) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Whisky For Breakfast T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Wylen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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À La Mode S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m) |
| FA: | Thomas Kelley, Bruce Burgess |
| Page Views: | 2,891 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Tom Caldwell on Dec 5, 2011 |
| Admins: | Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags
Details
The CCC has created the list linked below of accessible and inaccessible climbing areas with some caveats. If you decide to head out for a day of climbing, please do not attempt to go to those marked ‘inaccessible’. Please note that all areas in WNC will have extensive tree damage and if you head out, use extra caution for all the trees above, especially on a windy day. Rock fall potential is also highest after a big weather event. Please use extra caution while climbing and prepare to self rescue if injured. Injury response time will be greatly limited for any injury currently, especially for a remote injury. Cell service is limited in all areas. Parking at accessible crags in the WNC/ Upstate SC region will likely be challenging. If the parking lot is full, go to a different area and do not park illegally or in a road. Make a plan B before leaving your house. Expect road detours on the way to the crag. NCdrive.gov updates road closures. Once you get to the crag, expect many trees blocking access trails and of course, come volunteer with the CCC to help us bring our climbing areas back!
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
Description
The crux of this route may be keeping your head together. Several fun and exciting moves over well-spaced bolts and the occasional small piece of gear. This route is not for leaders just at the grade or unfamiliar with RP/brass placements.
Up the hill from Mennonite Surf Party at a white-splotched blunt arete. Start on the slab apron with a newly added bolt. Move up the left side of the apron to a couple of gear placements. Make the first series of hard moves over gear to move right towards the bolt above the bulge/roof. The last few moves to the bolt at the bulge/roof can be protected with a tapered brass placement. Clip the bolt and pull the crux. Follow the thin seam up and left for a few feet to the RP/brass placements. Head back up and right to a nice ledge and contemplate how far you will be above that thin gear before you get to the next bolt 15' above. A fall onto the RP/brass placements would be very bad from above. Follow the blunt arete for two more bolts into a water groove type feature just to the left. Get some good TCU's/C3 in a few horizontals on the way up. Make one last tough move before the anchors.
Up the hill from Mennonite Surf Party at a white-splotched blunt arete. Start on the slab apron with a newly added bolt. Move up the left side of the apron to a couple of gear placements. Make the first series of hard moves over gear to move right towards the bolt above the bulge/roof. The last few moves to the bolt at the bulge/roof can be protected with a tapered brass placement. Clip the bolt and pull the crux. Follow the thin seam up and left for a few feet to the RP/brass placements. Head back up and right to a nice ledge and contemplate how far you will be above that thin gear before you get to the next bolt 15' above. A fall onto the RP/brass placements would be very bad from above. Follow the blunt arete for two more bolts into a water groove type feature just to the left. Get some good TCU's/C3 in a few horizontals on the way up. Make one last tough move before the anchors.
Location
The easiest way to approach the climb is to head to the base of Mennonite Surf Party and turn left. Tunnel under some boulders and continue contouring the cliff up the hill until you reach this separate little wall at the top of the gully. Otherwise there will be a leaf choked gully as a direct approach that is slick. Notice the obvious white splotches up the arete and a few bolts. This climb is taller than it appears, 2 ropes are mandatory to get down. The route just had an update Fall of 2011, so lots of new bolts and some shiny ones at the anchor.
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