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Bobcat Cringe
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Terry Lien |
Page Views: | 5,936 total · 36/month |
Shared By: | Eric Hirst on Nov 20, 2011 · Updates |
Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
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Description
The beautiful, steep, curving thin crack R of Peanuts to Serve You. Start as for Peanuts, then cut R on easy ground (5.9) to reach a 2 bolt belay. Climb the crack, passing 2 bolts and 1 fixed pin to reach chains.
Includes thin laybacking, pocket pulling, tip-jamming, and knob climbing.
Caveat: I haven't climbed it yet. But I did take a picture today!
Includes thin laybacking, pocket pulling, tip-jamming, and knob climbing.
Caveat: I haven't climbed it yet. But I did take a picture today!
Protection
[See also Jon Todorovich's comment below -- his gear beta may be more reliable than this.]
Lots of thin-finger sized gear, at least 4 quickdraws, plus a few hand-sized cams for the approach pitch.
Before the first bolt, it is nice to have a 1/2" stopper to place in the ramp crack ("Jack Robinson"), and just after the first bolt, you can put a hand-sized (red camalot) cam into the only hand pod. There is one more pod, this one thin hands, but then it is all thin - use the smallest TCUs and include several 000 cams.
Lots of thin-finger sized gear, at least 4 quickdraws, plus a few hand-sized cams for the approach pitch.
Before the first bolt, it is nice to have a 1/2" stopper to place in the ramp crack ("Jack Robinson"), and just after the first bolt, you can put a hand-sized (red camalot) cam into the only hand pod. There is one more pod, this one thin hands, but then it is all thin - use the smallest TCUs and include several 000 cams.
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