The British Were Coming
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British PG13
Avg: 3.2 from 6 votes
Type: | Trad, Alpine, 800 ft (242 m), 8 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | Andy Tuthill and Chris Ellms (8-9-75) |
Page Views: | 3,099 total · 19/month |
Shared By: | proto G on Nov 19, 2011 |
Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Details
Description
1. Climb the steps and the dark corner above until it's possible to exit left into a V-grove. Belay at the top of the buttress (there is a not so good rap anchor at the far left end of the large terrace). 5.8
2. Climb diagonally right, zigzagging across slabs until you reach a short corner where it's possible to belay. This pitch wanders a bit and has difficult route finding. 5.8
3. Climb the corner and fractured slabs to a small roof. Step left to surmount the roof (crux) and belay above. 5.9
4. A short pitch leads to the base of the obvious bomb-bay chimney. 5.6
5. Climb the chimney to its top (gear deep inside the chimney - strenuous) and exit left and down to a good stance. 5.8
6. Climb slabs to the left, almost to a large dihedral, then back right to a belay on a ledge. 5.7
7. Straight up through a first overlap then slightly left through another overlap. Belay atop a characteristic block. 5.7
8. Easier climbing straight up to the top. 5.6
2. Climb diagonally right, zigzagging across slabs until you reach a short corner where it's possible to belay. This pitch wanders a bit and has difficult route finding. 5.8
3. Climb the corner and fractured slabs to a small roof. Step left to surmount the roof (crux) and belay above. 5.9
4. A short pitch leads to the base of the obvious bomb-bay chimney. 5.6
5. Climb the chimney to its top (gear deep inside the chimney - strenuous) and exit left and down to a good stance. 5.8
6. Climb slabs to the left, almost to a large dihedral, then back right to a belay on a ledge. 5.7
7. Straight up through a first overlap then slightly left through another overlap. Belay atop a characteristic block. 5.7
8. Easier climbing straight up to the top. 5.6
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