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W Virginia
> New River Gorge…
> Meadow River Gorge
> Upper Meadow
> 1. First Buttress
Black Crack
5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 3.8 from 4
votes
Routes in 1. First Buttress
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Vignette S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Typical Situation S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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West Virginia Two-Step S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Creature S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Floaters S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Ben Dunne T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lady Punk S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Cross-Eyed and Blind S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Lamda S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Push S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Boomerang S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Black Crack T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Corner Pocket S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Eye of Mordor S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Toymaker S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Superman S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Pinocchio S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Andoullie S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sausage S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Being Dani Andrada S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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You, Watch the Clocks! S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Peter Croft FFA 1997, Equipper Doug Reed 1996 |
| Page Views: | 2,841 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | camhead on Nov 7, 2011 |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19
Details
- **NO PARKING SIGNS HAVE BEEN INSTALLED ALONG ROUTE 19 WHERE IT HAS BEEN CUSTOMARY TO PARK FOR MEADOW RIVER CLIMBING AND BOATING ACCESS. THIS MEANS NO PARKING ALONG ROUTE 19 SOUTH, BETWEEN THE BRIDGE AND UNDERWOOD RD.
Description
Obvious splitter crack that cuts through the headwall between Boomerang and Corner Pocket. Climb the first four bolts of Corner Pocket (there is gear available the whole way if you prefer to skip bolts), then move left into a broken fingercrack, interspersed with lots of jugs. At the base of the final headwall, make a slightly heady and very exposed traverse right to the steep splitter, which is mostly perfect fingers. After the splitter ends, bust slightly right again through dirty jugs, to anchors at the very top of the cliff.
The first 2/3rds of this route isn't so bad but the pump builds for the headwall!
The first 2/3rds of this route isn't so bad but the pump builds for the headwall!
Photos
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